Miyajima

Trip Start Oct 20, 2008

Trip End Jan 31, 2009

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Flag of Japan Miyajima, Chugoku, Japan
Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Took a day trip from Hiroshima to the island of Miyajima. My first stop was the Itsukushima Shrine, first built in the 6th Century. It`s main gate that is partially left underwater at high tide, is featured on every single bit of travel literature that you can find on Japan. Similar to the Kasuga Taisha Shrine in Nara, it was painted in the four colors that had been imported from China. On the other hand, it was more flat and hence spread out than any other shrine that I have visited.

Got on the rope way and headed to the peak of Mount Misen (535m). I walked around the religious buildings and the deer up there. Then attempted to get to the Okunoin Temple by following the signs. First, they lead me to a relatively untouched part of the forest where it was quite difficult not to slip and fall. Just as I was thinking that I was lost, I got to a paved way. I relaxed

Buddhas

. I saw another sign showing the way for the Temple. Relaxed further... After walking downhill for 15 minutes, came to a dead end with no signs. Walked back to the last sign that I had seen to check the direction. It was pointing at the dead end.

The only person that I came across along this trail was a maintenance guy who spoke no English, as expected. He pointed at the direction of the dead end as well. So I thought that the dead end may not be a dead end after all. Went back to check it out one last time.

It was 4.30pm and the sun had set. My compass was confirming that Okunoin was somewhere behind this dead end. After looking around for a while, I spotted a rough path in the Southeast. Went in; jumped over a few broken trees; tried not to slip on the thousands of moist leaves that covered the forest ground like a carpet. Finally I gave up. This was an untouched path that had no potential of reaching civilization.

I returned to the signs. One of the arrows was pointing at the summit, but there was no point in going there, since the last gondola had left. Plus, it was too steep. The sky was running out of sunlight fast. Another arrow was pointing at a Tatara

Buddhas 2

. I couldn`t find this name in any of my maps. There was nobody in sight to ask for help.

The Tatara direction seemed to have a paved road suitable for cars. Hoping that a car would pass by, I started walking downhill to Tatara. My back was covered in cold sweat; I was stressed out. Even if a car didn`t pass by, there had to be people at "Tatara" since I was walking downhill towards the seaside. In the meantime, I was mentally preparing myself for the possibility of having to spend the night in the forest. You don`t have water, but you have an apple and some Mamiju Manju (traditional Miyajima cookies), I was telling myself. Moreover, I was lucky to have my warm Northface jacket with me.

As these anxiety-provoking thoughts were buzzing through my brain, a heard a van approaching from behind. I stopped the vehicle and told the driver that I was lost and that I had to catch the ferry. Surprisingly, he spoke good English. Graciously, the elderly driver invited me into his van. After saying my domo arigatos, I realized that I had met this guy before. He was the waiter of the cafe at the sumnmit who had annoyed my by not letting me use the trash can. How ironic life is... That annoying man had just saved my day.