Amman All Over Again
Trip Start
Oct 20, 2008
1
26
93
Trip End
Jan 31, 2009
Amman,
Jordan
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Went in and out of at least 5 banks. Contrary to what LP says, it is very difficult to cash traveler's checks in Amman. Even HSBC doesn't do it.
The circle system makes navigating in Amman quite easy. On the main street that cuts through most of Amman, there are 8 circles which serve as landmarks. The drawback is that these serves also serve as roundabouts, which means that there is a lot of congestion and confusion around them.
Diana dropped me off at the 2nd circle from where I took a cab to the Citadel
Downtown
. The Citadel was initially constructed by the Romans. In the 8th Century, it was transformed into an Umayyad Palace. The Palace is in shambals and quite a bit of imagination is necessary to come up with a wholesome picture. However, there is a well-organized archeological museum up there as well as spectacular views of the city. For me, understanding how the city has been organized is more important than walking around ancient ruins.Walked all the way down from the Citadel, through relatively poor neighbours, to the Roman Amphitheater. It has been so intensely renovated that the amphitheater has lost its ancient feel. In addition, the 2 ethnography museum in the 2 wings of the theater weren't exciting. Unfortunately, I did break my promise of not going into ethnography museums in the Middle East.
Went by the Nympheum, which was closed due to renovations.
Passed by the central bank, where there was a currency museum, and climbed the hill to the Darat al-Funun. Darat al-Funun, meaning the house of art, is a very well-managed, boutique modern art museum with a library and a cafe. The librarion told me that the House of Art was funded through a foundation that was established by the family who owns the Arab Bank
The Citadel
. To me, King's Academy and Darat al-Funun are the prime evidence proving the level of development Jordan has achieved.Rush hour traffic was quite dense, but the tunnels work quite well. If you take the tunnels, you go below the junctions, thereby bypassing the traffic.
Met up with Diana at the 8th Circle. Got lost as we were trying to find the Royal Automobile Museum. First, accidentally went into the space-age Citymall. After that attempted to enter the Royal Automobile Club (how British), thinking that it was the museum. Finally, got to King Hussein Park. This is a complex that combines 3 museums with sports facilities. Truely vast. The museum had dozens of cars from the late King's personal collection. Layout was impressive. The labels not only explained the technical characteristics and its place in the auto history, but also its significance for the royal family. I would have liked it even more if the pieces were arranged in chronological order.
Tried to get into Fahr al-Din for dinner. Was full with reservations and the kitchen did not open until 8pm. Therefore, we went to the nearby Chinese restauramnt called "Shanghai". The food was ok, filling and cheap. Paid 7 JDs for chicken, noodle and a drink.
Had drinks at Calle on Rainbow Street. It was a nice place to end the day over beer. However, it was stuffy and there was nothing special about the ambience. There was a balcony on the 3rd floor. It must be quite enjoyable to sit out there on warmer nights.
