After a somewhat expensive taxi ride from the airport COP40,000 we arrived
at the Iguana hostel in Cali. The spacious double room with private
bathroom was an improvement on Case Viena, until we sat on the bed. It was
not much different from opting to sleep on the floor and with no hot running
water, we were a little disappointed. In writing this it's hard to know if
we were lucky with our hostel in Taganga and the other hostels are the norm
or whether we aren't picking well. Kids of the staff ran riot around the
hostel, shrieking, screaming and everything seemed to be an effort for the
people who staffed the place. Regardless, with bags dropped off and
valuables locked away, we set off to explore the area. Calle 6 was a road
full of Salsa clubs (we are now in Colmbia's salsa capital) cheap eats and
shops. Calle 9 had nice restaurants, a bottle shop and a great place for
coffee (the normal coffee they serve here is so weak and not very good).
Juan Valdez is a Colmbian version of Starbucks and yet, better.
Cali feels safer than Cartagena and Bogota but not by any huge amount. The
hostel was in an affluent area but that didn't prevent the noise at night
from car alarms, drunken Israelis returning home (no one seems to like
Israelis here) and the 6am pump class blasting music from the gym across the
road. Noise is definitely something we have had to accept as part and
parcel of the South America experience.
In opting to stay in the hostel on our first evening, we were invited to
join two British lads for dinner who were cycling from Argentina to
Colombia. We were suitably impressed and I was happy to be able to swap my
Pablo Cohelo book for 2 new ones (Helen it went to a good home).
Our second day in Cali was the one we were looking forward to since we were
to be given a tour of the city from Leo (a guy we had met in Tayrona
National Park). After our morning of coffee and standard issue eggs for
breakfast, we met Leo and were driven all around the city for the best part
of the afternoon.
I would imagine people who don't have the luxury of being shown Cali by a
local would not think much of the place. However, with a car and a local
showing us the highlights, we really got a feel for the place. From
countryside to favelas, I hope the photos can depict the place. A local
treat of crushed ice, fruit, syrup and condensed milk made an excellent
afternoon snack as we headed to Leo's family home to meet his parents and
take an afternoon salsa lesson.
Leo's Dad sells silicone implants and other items used in plastic surgery.
I can now say I know what a fake breast would feel like be it only before it
has been implanted (probably for the best). It was interesting that the
family home was in a gated community and had a big metal door. Crime is a
big thing in Colombia and as we have noted on numerous occasions security is
everywhere. Leo's Mum made us delicious fruit juices as we attempted to
learn to salsa with our instructor Leo. I think we both need further
practice but it was an amazing opportunity to spend time in a Colombian
family home.
Having played such a generous host, we ask Leo if we could take him out to
dinner. He asked if we wanted something authentic (yes please) so, we head
to the local shopping mall for a Corral burger. I'd say it was a fancy
version of Burger King and although not as authentic as we expected, it was
delicious. We walked off dinner in a local park that was showing a cat
exhibition and found a local bar for a nightcap. (In Cali you pay someone
COP1000 to guide you in and out of parking spaces and make sure no one
breaks into your car while you are away)...It had been a great day that would
never have happened if it weren't for the generosity of such a lovely guy.
It's definitely the people that shine in this country.
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