Trekking in Cordillera Real
Trip Start Feb 25, 2012
54Trip End Aug 13, 2012
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CZ: Po týdnu našeho pobytu v La Paz, kdy jsme kvůli mé nemoci museli některé plánované aktivity odložit, bylo již na čase vyrazit někam do pořádných hor. Vybrali jsme si třídenní El Choro trek, zažínající vysoko (4800 m) v horách Cordillera Real nedaleko La Paz, a končící v pouhých 1200 m nedaleko městečka Coroico. El Choro trek je oblíbený především tím, že prochází několika vegetačními pásmy podle toho, jak se mění nadmořská výška. Dle průvodce měla cesta na své délce asi 52 km vést převážně z kopce. To se moc nepotvrdilo, neboť jsme si místy mákli do kopce až až.
Převážná většina treků v bolivijských, tak jako i v peruánských horách, jsou knižními průvodci doporučovány dělat s guidem-průvodcem
Každopádně trek to byl úžasný. Procházeli jsme mnoha horskými vesničkami, od těch „tibetského" charakteru vysoko v horách, kde se chovají především lamy nebo ovce, až po ty „v pralese“, kde obživa místních závisí na tom, co tropický les „dá“. Za zmínku určitě stojí náš kemping druhou noc, kdy jsme stanovali na krásné travnaté plošině vysoko nad okolními svahy s jedinečným výhledem do hlubokých údolí kolem
Po třech dnech jsme se dostali do vesnice Chairo, kde trek končil, a odkud jsme se minibusem dopravili do městečka Coroico. To je velice populární dovolenková destinace především lidí z La Paz. Je zde stálé teplo (oproti stále chladnému La Paz) a krásné okolí, kterým se Coroico může pyšnit. My zde chtěli zůstat alespoň jednu noc, než se vrátíme do La Paz
Největší překvapení nás však čekalo následující ráno, kdy jsme spěchali na bus do La Paz
EN: After a week of our stay in La Paz, where we had to postpone some planned activities because of my illness, it was high time to go explore surrounding mountains. We chose a three-day El Choro trek starting high (4800 m) in the mountains of the Cordillera Real near La Paz and ending in just 1200 m near the town of Coroico. El Choro trek is popular mainly because it passes through several vegetation zones, as the altitude changes. The vast majority of treks in the Bolivian and Peruvian mountains as well, are recommended by guide books to do with the guide. This is mainly because of safety reasons, since there are sometimes tourists robbed in the mountains. That includes this trek as well. We did not pay any guide, did the trek alone together with one German guy Bernd, and felt all the time more than safe. The truth is that we were the only ones here hiking and camping without the presence of guide. My opinion on this whole thing is about this: sometime about 10 maybe even 15 years ago there was some white tourist robbed, word spread it into a world, and since then all guide books just copy year after year the story about robbing. The reality is nowdays however, quite different
Anyway, it was an amazing trek. We walked through many mountain villages, from the "Tibetean" ones, where local´s main bussines are llamas and sheeps, to those "in the jungle", where local livelihoods depend on what the tropical forest "give".
It´s worth to mention our second night when we camped on a beautiful grassy plateau high above the surrounding slopes with a unique view into the deep valleys around. It was definitely the coolest place we have ever built our tent. The icing on the cake here was the fact that the land is owned by a old man, perhaps 100 years old, who comes from Japan, and came here sometime in the 50's. He showed us map of his travel to Bolivia - ship across the Indian Ocean, around Africa, then across the Atlantic to Rio de Janeiro, and overland up here, in the Bolivian mountains. He showed us also his book, where he records all campers and they all mark the point in the map, where they come from. There was only three places in his map from Czech, so we marked other two for him. Generally he knew about our country as well as about ther european and world countries so much that we could not believe that! And he has never been in Czech or enywhere in Europe though, of course
After three days hiking we got to the village called Chairo, where the trek ended, and where we were transported by minibus to the town of Coroico from. This is a very popular holiday destination especially by people from La Paz. There is stable warm weather (compared to cold La Paz) and beautiful surroundings. We wanted to stay here at least for one night before we return to La Paz. It was Friday, and Fiesta was held here - the biggest celebrations in Bolivia.
We heard live music since our arrival. In the evening we packed up and went to check it out. In the dark, we climbed up the hill all the time following the sound of music. There was live music with several platforms with lots of people around. Perhaps the whole town came. But what tourist could immediately see here, were walking (dancing?) people, all drunk, though it was barely 7 pm. Everyone, literally everyone, from old women and men to the young, drank bottled beer, which was everywhere. There was no one seen without a bottle of beer in hand. Many of them carried even whole box of beer. All were in very good mood, friendly, countless people shaked our hands, slapped our shoulders, while continually drinking beer. It was funny watch all those drinkers, many of them later sleeping everywhere. The best were the old men and old ladies. They probably drank the most. It seemed, the older the person, the more drank. Truly remarkable experience.The biggest surprise, however, awaited us next morning, when we walked to catch the bus to La Paz. There was Saturday´s market, where all the people came together, and no one looked to be after party last night. Bolivians really know how to drink!