Overnight Sleeper to Udaipur

We came back to Jaipur for the day on Saturday and got the overnight sleeper to Udaipur. My first thoughts when I boarded the harshly lit crowded train were - oh no I'm not going to like this. And isn't it great how wrong first impressions can be. Once everyone had settled into their bunks - Joe took the top bunk and I took the lowest one the guard came round and switched the lights out (telling me off cos I was reading with a torch) and the carriage transformed into one of the cosiest places I have ever been. It was great just to lie on my bunk and occasionally open the curtains and watch the desert rolling by. It's a very safe feeling being with so many other people. We'd booked an air conditioned sleeper car and as a result the carriage was clean and the crowd genteel. It's a good job really cos I'm pretty dizzy about looking after my possessions when I'm half asleep. I went to the loo one time and left my wallet on the bunk. I woke up in the middle of the night and realised that our padlock keys were on the bedside table (we'd locked our bags under the seat). So Joe will be put in charge of everything next time!

Elephant by the lake

We got into Udaipur and had breakfast at Shiva Guest House. (I had peanut butter on toast - heavenly!) The view of the lake from there must be one of the best so we asked how much the rooms were. When we found out it was just 150rupees (2 pounds) for a double en suite the deal was clinched. You obviously don't pay any extra for cleanliness and friendliness in India - the place is spotless and the staff and owner are ever so welcoming. (I had a very interesting conversation today where I was trying to explain to one of them what a blonde moment was. It was when he was laughing at me for standing outside the hotel look with a baffled look wondering where the hotel was.)

Tha sorted we set out to explore the city. It's a millionaire's playground that's welcoming to budget travellers. So we've got the best of both worlds - brilliant shops, plenty to do and it's great not being particularly rich in local people's eyes for a change - you get hassled less.

The first thing I did was see an elephant (photo attached). I got to touch it's trunk and everything. I had to pay 10 rupees for the photo and the elephant collected the money with his trunk - priceless! :)

A lot of the restuarants do evening showings of Octopussy cos this is where it was filmed. Think we'll go towards the end of the week when we recognise the sights more. This has started a trend for screenings in the restuarants though and on my first night here we found ourselves watching American Beauty on one of the rooftops. I've always loved the film but watching it sipping rosewater milkshakes with the nightime Udaipur skyline in the distance is an experience that will stay with me forever.

We've also been for afternoon tea at the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel. I felt very civilised sipping tea and nibbling on bicuits looklng out over the lake. It was very romantic. In the evening we had a different but no less memorable eating experience - delicious home cooked food at the Queen's cafe. Meeru invited us to sit with her family and her 1 and a half year old son played peek a boo and asked me for a bedtime story.I has to make up some words - the writing was in hindi - but he didn't seem to mind! The pumpkin curry was excellent too.