India Part 4: Ranthambore
Trip Start
May 07, 2008
1
9
90
Trip End
Jan 06, 2009
Ranthambore,
India
Friday, June 20, 2008
Well, we arrived in Ranthambore late at night again. Ranthambore is a small village with only one claim to fame. Read on to find out what it is!!
Our driver, Arif, took us first to the Tiger Resort Hotel which was small, welcoming, surrounded by exotic palms but had a room like a prison cell and a rotten bathroom so we moved on. Another two hotels later in the village with the same conditions and David and I decided we weren't going to get a clean locust-free sleep anywhere apart from the best Hotel in the tiny village. So as a last resort and because we were all so exhausted, we descended upon: The Oberoi. The Oberoi is a large chain of international luxurious Hotels. Oh My Beautiful God! They are PARADISE! Thankfully someone close to us gave some money as a wedding gift so we used some of that to stay here. It was pure unrefined Heaven!
Our Hotel was situated in a jungle, literally, with free-roaming monkeys and peacocks, lakes with fountains, marble floors, chandeliers, staff waiting on your every move, , swimming pool, luxury spa. All the staff are in traditional Indian dress..men with turbans, women with sari's but their uniforms were of exquisite silks and satins of rich, eye-popping colours, so beautiful
Me excited at our room!!!
. Our room was a tent. Literally. (the size of a small marquee if you want to be un-romantic about it!) Our massive tent, amidst others, in the jungle environment housed a four-poster bed, a bathroom with a free-standing bath and tiled shower big enough for two, a dressing room, an office area..and had loads of free shit!!...it was utter blissssss. Outside we were surrounded by sky-reaching palms, jasmine that filled your nose, exotic trees. At night, the monsoon rain would batter down on our tent and send us to sleep. We had to walk back to the main hotel for meals which often involved a huge golfing umbrella to keep dry and a torch to guide us past the lakes, lawns and sky-reaching ferns while listening to the night sounds of bats, crickets, monkeys, frogs...wonderful. God I miss that place...The day after we arrived, David and I went for a stroll in the grounds and came across Lakshmee and Mala. They were the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen. They were female elephants. I went absolutely mental and my eyes went all teary as I moaned "ahhhhhhhhhhhh". The keepers suggested a trip on them 1 mile down the road. David had Mala who was as good as gold, a real goody-two-shoes. I had Lakshmee who was the naughty elephant. All she wanted to do was eat trees and walk where she wanted to walk ignoring orders! She had real character. I loved her. The ride was really good fun. Bit unsteady at times but we sat on a cushioned platform on their back with handles so we had a good grip!
The main reason we were in Ranthambore was for it's chief and sole attraction: Ranthambore National Park
Another fountain
. Here, you got in a jeep for 3 hours and drove around acres of jungle land in search of the resident tigers, monkeys, cobras, peacocks, deer, crocodiles and multitude of birds. Just before David and I first went along, there was the most incredible storm beforehand with Titinus-inducing thunder, flash lightening, rain bulleting down on our tent and a gale force wind! We were on hand by the phone in case the safari was off. But clouds came and went and we got a call post-storm saying "Are you ready? Come On!" so we were collected in the open-air jeep and driven down the road to the Park. Just as we entered the jungle it started to rain lightly and then the Heavens suddenly opened once again and it absolutely chucked it down. As there was no roof on the jeep we got absolutely drenched through - it was the best fun! Since we left the UK back in May, we've been lugging around our waterproof Goretex anoraks, with hoods, all over Cyprus, all over Istanbul, all over India. We've never had a need to wear them. Until now. And we forgot and left them in the Hotel! We saw no tigers or cobras but plenty of deer, more peacocks, huge crocodiles sloping just under the surface of the lakes like Jaws and some beautiful birds.
The next day we went on another safari trek to chance our luck at seeing the tigers again. Just as wonderful a drive but this time the sun melted our backs. But the tigers were playing hard to get. Apparently, to see them during any monsoon rain is rare as they hate the damp
One fountain
. We were just unlucky. However, the drive ended in comedy. During the jeep expeditions, there are obviously lots of other vehicles carrying tourists around that you pass along the way. We passed this one bus where most of the sari-clad occupants and children were milling around in the mud surrounding it. The stupid bus driver had decided to drive right through a quagmire and so got it cemented in the mud. Our jeep stopped to see if we could help at all and then we sped off to the entrance office to obtain tools to help tow the bus out. Our guide and the driver managed to obtain some really useful towing items: barbed wire. A flimsy metal wall bracket. String. We sped back through the jungle to the shipwrecked vehicle and its wandering passengers. Everyone pissed their pants at the towing items and they were instantly thrown aside. Back to plan A. Ramming other vehicles into the back of stuck bus to dislodge it......Namely, our jeep. While I was sitting in it! Communication to passengers/guests/customers is not that common in India!! However, as David quite rightly pointed out at the time, what absolutely everyone failed to bear in mind, was the terrifyingly close proximity of the Lake's crocodiles that were now all salivating and putting out their best china for a sumptuous feast for all crocs! Our jeep buggered off after surrendering to dislodging bus, leaving other guides and stranded passengers to it. We were dropped off back at the hotel to wipe our tears of laughter away at the strangeness of India and its people.
After this, and for the rest of the day we walked around the Hotel grounds in serene tranquillity, drank beer while playing pool, snuggled in our 4-poster bed and watched a Bollywood movie and I had a deep and luxurious bath
The Hotel lobby
. As it was our last night, and because we were on our Honeymoon, the Oberoi laid a special tablecloth on our table with sequins and glitter, lit candles, gave us a special menu and then gave us a chocolate cake with icing saying "congratulations". It was soooo lovely. All the staff there were just gorgeous, friendly, professional and just brilliant. We were thoroughly spoilt and truly impressed with everything.
The next day, Lakshmee and Mala were all dressed up and waiting outside to say good bye to us. We brought them some apples to eat and David gave his to Mala but I was terrified!! You had to place it at the back of their open mouths!! And Lakshmee's tongue was trembling at the very scent of a juicy apple!! I attempted to throw it in from about 10miles away but it bounced back out of his mouth and under the car!! for gods sakes!! So the keeper did it for me instead and Lakshmee chomped and chomped and then sent his trunk over to me for a search for more food! Mala just appreciated what she had. Goody two shoes!!
A lot of the staff came out to say goodbye too and waved us off, it was so lovely. We felt very special indeed.
Our next epic car journey was now onto Pushka. What a flaming ordeal that turned out to be!! Good god!!
Lots of love,
Lois & David xxxxx
