Kaza, Kibber and Ki Gompa

Trip Start Jun 30, 2008
1
9
15
Trip End Jul 28, 2008


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Where I stayed
Bodh Guest House

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Saturday, July 12, 2008

I decided to stay in Tabo one more day after the green toast incident to gain some strength. I've already lost a lot of weight because my stomach was scared shitless (in this case quite litteraly) during my first week here. It remembers all too well how horribly ill it was last time I was in India. I'm glad to say that my appetite is back, but maybe I should inspect my food a little more thoroughly from now on.

I went to the local hospital and got some medicine for free. Unknown to me, one of the pills has the side effect of turning my urine bright orange, so for the next couple of days I was sure I would soon die of dehydration.

The bus trip from Tabo to Kaza (both in Spiti Valley) was the most amazing ever. Rock forests of pin shaped pillars rising from the valley, lush green fields and a river constantly flowing in and out of itself. Unfortunately it's damn near impossible to take any decent photos from these buses.

Met up with Boaz and Annat who I've shared paths with since Nako. Today we rented a jeep and went on a day trip to Kibber and Ki Gompa. Kipper once claimed to be the highest village in the world (4.200 m), but now they've added "with electricity and a motorable road". It didn't feel all that high up because the valley itself is at 3.600 m, but a growing head-ache reminded me of the altitude. After a tourist style photo safari we went down to Ki Gompa, a 800 years old buddhist monastery built on its own little mountain. It was amazing to look at scriptures more than 1000 years old handwritten on bark and in almost perfect condition. We had chai with the monks in the kitchen joined by a german guy with a long white beard wearing white from top to toe. I guess I might have jokingly wished for Gandalf the White to come and help me on my quest, but I never imagined actually meeting him.

Tomorrow, if all goes well, I am going on my first trek. It starts at Kunzum-La (translates as Pass of Piles of Dead Bodies) and ends 4-5 hours of walking north at the beautiful Chandratal mountain lake. I've booked a tent and a sleeping bag, and the plan is to walk back to the road and get on a bus to Manali the next day. Will write more when I get there.
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meeuw
meeuw on Jul 14, 2008 at 04:48AM

Vierdaagse!
Hello my man Morten. Here's a little message from the shire. All's well here, the hobbits are behaving normally. That is: the usual silly stuff they like. Tomorrow when you are walking in heaven's altitudes, some 40.000 walkers will start with the Vierdaagse marches. I remember us talking about it first time we met.

Coming weekend five Hobbits of the Santiago Fellowship will meet in Germany, including Eliezer from Venuzuela. How I look forward to embrace him.

Other good news about the camino which will linger on for ever: next year september I will be hospitalero in Rabanal del Camino, a tiny village of one street between Leon and Astorga. I wrote to the Confraternity of St. James in London and they are glad to accept my assistance as a volunteer during the first two weeks of september. I will be staying there and afterwards use one week for visiting some places in Spain. Will be going by car, so keep this in mind for your 2009 plans.

Morten, to tell you about my situation in some cryptic words: all is going a little bit better between the 2 of us. With me: healthy as a lion. Some sun rays are warming up the glacier and even a little warmth is reflected from the ice. The glacier is still hughe, but it's melting. Time is on our side. Do a little meditation for me and tell the Buddha to help me. I'm praying for you. Feel my love,

Gaviota

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