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WATERY AIR ON FIRE


Destinations > Asia > Russia > Chemal, Respublika Altai > Travel Blog: (2007) This travelogue be ... > WATERY AIR ON FIRE


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(2007) This travelogue begins in Michigan and then wanders around Europe for a while, and then ... I get to experience SIBERIA for seven months.

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WATERY AIR ON FIRE

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Thursday, Jul 19, 2007  05:44

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forest in Chemal
 

 

I should've been naked.  Someone should've been hitting me on the back with a tree branch.
 
The Russian word for torture is "pytka".  But, this was "banya" (a sauna).  The difference between them is that Russians will PAY FOR "banya".
 
I was wearing my swimsuit - a common American first-time "banya-er" mistake.  And I was alone.  Thus, the tree-branches rested on the sauna's seating ledges, and no one beat me with them - a tradition which, along with the desire for vodka, I don't understand.
 
I had just used a scooper to throw water on hot rocks in the bottom of the furnace.  White steam shot out.  To this point, the spacious new-wood sauna had been warm.  But now, one by one, the molecules in the room began getting so electrically hot they popped like corn.
 
Was I supposed to be enjoying this?  I focused instead on surviving.  It felt like an on-fire house was breathing on me.  Sweat poured.  Red skin fought to protect me.
 
I felt attacked.  Scalding dots of red surrounded me and crept down my throat, each containing tiny Grim Reapers who stole my cells away in flames.  It felt like too much; I should combust.
 
Beside me, where I stood, ready to escape when I thought I was going to fall into Hell, was a tub with water.  Maybe the water was supposed to be cold, but it was barely even cool.  This was my relief.
 
My strategy was that, each time a part of my body felt like it was experiencing first-degree burns, I'd throw cool water on it - thus rationing the water I otherwise would've dumped on me all at once.
 
First, my face felt swarmed by the humidity.  I palmed water onto it. . then my chest. . then my left arm needed relief. . then the right. . then my left leg felt grilled. . then my chest.
 
The water brought about one-and-a-half seconds of relief to each body part.  The tub of water was quickly emptying.  Would the steam from the wet rocks wear off first, or would I pop too?
 
I couldn't sit down, because the elevation change threatened to burn up my esophagus when I considered it.  Red.  My thoughts were red.
 
Water from the tub leaked off me.  Red.  Scooping water on me brought me less and less relief; about 0.3 seconds of relief with each scoop.  Red.  The skin on my chest and inner mouth wanted to scream.  "Run!  Run, Justin!  Run!"
 
I made for the door.  The four steps to the door seemed as impossible as if I would walk four steps through the Great Wall of China.  The heat reached its tearing, chubby hands into my pores.  The door was tough to open.  In my nightmares, it would've been locked from the outside ... but it was open.
 
I stepped out into the Altai Mountains' night.  Relief.  I was in the open-air dressing room.  A second door from there could lead me to a cold pool of water.  Further relief.
 
Man, I know Russians are strong.  But, that was "strashnyy" (terrible)!  (Of course, I hadn't paid for the experience; a rural campground had invited me to it.)
 
The campground also graciously fed me.  I ate crispy potato patties containing soft ground-beef oysters, touched with lemon.  Mmm.  Their homemade "kvas", a drink made by leaving dry bread in maple sap for three days, tasted like stale beer - but better.
 
Do you know what?  Following the time in the "banya," I felt much better.  I felt like all my body's lazy, unmotivated cells had been zapped.  I felt ready to walk a kilometer through the dark forest, to search through hills and plants without any light like a mole, and to find the tree where I'd hidden my bags so I could set up my tent and sleep.  And that's what I did.
 
 
- peace and relief, Modern Oddyseus


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If you like this entry, search for other entries by modernoddyseus, from Russia or try a new search.
THE WARM ARMS OF BANDITS
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BARE-TOP MOUNTAIN

 
Table of Contents
1 - 20 | 21 - 40 | 41 - 53
ACTS OF SPONTANEOUS ECSTASY | TWO DECADES AFTER PERESTROIKA - PART Ishow all entries

21.LOOKING FOR WORK IN A NEW TOWN (A MANUAL) - Tomsk, Russia Jul 09, 2007
22.THE WARM ARMS OF BANDITS - Berdsk, Novosibirskaya Oblast, Russia Jul 15, 2007 ( This entry has 2 photos 2 )
23.WATERY AIR ON FIRE - Chemal, Respublika Altai, Russia Jul 19, 2007 ( This entry has 1 photos 1 )
24.BARE-TOP MOUNTAIN - Lake Kolxoznoe, Resp. Altai, Russia Jul 28, 2007 ( This entry has 9 photos 9 )
25.A.S.E.: CLIMB A TREE - Ust-Kumir, Resp. Altai, Russia Aug 10, 2007 ( This entry has 1 photos 1 )
26.THE ALTAIANS - Ust-Koksa, Resp. Altai, Russia Aug 12, 2007 ( This entry has 7 photos 7 )
27.HOW TO SURVIVE THE SUMMER, HOMELESS, IN RUSSIA - Tomsk, Russia Aug 26, 2007 ( This entry has 2 photos 2 )
28.IN CONCERT, DDT! - Novosibirsk, Russia Sep 03, 2007
29.KUMIR CANYON, AND HOW I GOT INTO THE CONCERT - Kumir Canyon, Altaiskyy Krai, Russia Sep 04, 2007 ( This entry has 5 photos 5 )
30.VLYUBLYONYY - Tomsk, Russia Sep 10, 2007 ( This entry has 1 photos 1 )
31.SICK IN THE CITY - Tomsk, Russia Sep 23, 2007 ( This entry has 2 photos 2 )
32.A.S.E.: TEACH (PART I) - Tomsk, Russia Oct 01, 2007 ( This entry has 3 photos 3 )
33.A.S.E.: TEACH (PART II) - Tomsk, Russia Oct 01, 2007 ( This entry has 3 photos 3 )
34.WINTER HAS COME - Tomsk, Russia Oct 11, 2007 ( This entry has 8 photos 8 )
35.LAST NIGHT A ROCK BAR SAVED MY LIFE - Tomsk, Russia Oct 21, 2007 ( This entry has 2 photos 2 )
36.SAMADHI WHILE POSING FOR ARTISTS - Tomsk, Russia Nov 10, 2007 ( This entry has 4 photos 4 )
37.SCARY HOUSE - Tomsk, Russia Nov 15, 2007 ( This entry has 5 photos 5 )
38.TWO SCARY DDT SONGS - Tomsk, Russia Nov 16, 2007 ( This entry has 2 photos 2 )
39.A WALK AROUND TOMSK - Tomsk, Russia Nov 27, 2007 ( This entry has 5 photos 5 ) ( Comments 1 )
40.A SECOND AND A THIRD WALK AROUND TOMSK - Tomsk, Russia Dec 04, 2007 ( This entry has 5 photos 5 )

ACTS OF SPONTANEOUS ECSTASY | TWO DECADES AFTER PERESTROIKA - PART Ishow all entries
1 - 20 | 21 - 40 | 41 - 53

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