VIKINGS AND HOOLIGANS
Trip Start Mar 10, 2004
50Trip End May 10, 2005
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The "up and up" down here in Spain is that Iīve been on the move for
fifty-plus days now from Umea, Sweden. I call myself a traveler.
But, I need a place to hang my shoes every once in a while.
As I decide to stop carrying more and more of my possessions, the
burden of two heavy bags seems to shuffle my back like a deck of
cards at a harder and harder pace. All the transitions between
languages have caused my brain to speak Swespaņolishuguesench. Even
Icelandic was spoken this last week! And, if I have to endure
another two-hour-plus wait while hitchhiking, Iīm just gonna fall
down. The last week was especially exhausting ... of course, it was
a lot of fun too.
Things were going really quite well between Italian-blooded, American
Elaine and me. When we left Barcelona, we decided to hitchhike south
to Benidorm together so we wouldnīt have to split up.
The European hitchhiking was a big bust. We got zero rides in
two-and-a-half hours, and Elaineīs back got sunburnt. So, we headed
back to the apartment of my familyīs former Spanish exchange student,
Sergei, to spend the night and have more fun than a hitchhiker has.
The next day, I had a lot of fun being a hitchhiker. Elaine used her
Eurorail train Pass to go somewhere.
A bespectacled, wimpy-bodied guy in a sky blue business shirt and red
tie stopped for me last. He had hair like my dadīs, meaning he only
had a fringe of dark hair beneath the big, bald top of his head.
Bald guys in business suits rarely stop for hitchhikers. (My dad
never wears business suits. He often picks up hitchhikers.) But,
this guy, Juan, was a really cool Spaniard.
He introduced me as a "nuevo amigo" (new friend) to his wife over the
phone. He raved about Spainīs socialist practices, proud as a daisy.
He says no one ever has to pay for health care in Spain. And if I
or another foreigner were to get hurt while in Spain, weīd get free
health care too. Illegal immigrants in Spain are guaranteed health
care and education, by registering as residents with the government
offices which donīt share their information with immigration.
Juanīs job as director of sales for an agriculture machinery company
had sent him all over Spain and South America. But as a youth, Juan
had hitchhiked all over Spain and France.
A Romanian truck-driver had picked me up before Juan. Heīd married a
Spanish girl who heīd met when he was young and traveling around
Spain in search of work. He gave me a shot of a Romanian home-made
liquor made out of plums. Its 52% alcohol content flamed down my
throat and lingered warmly in my chest.
My second ride had come from "Porfideo." He was a middle-aged
truck-driver from the Dominican Republic, with features round and
cuddly like George Foremanīs. I looked up to Porfideo and admired
him. Heīd managed to leave the - then communist - Dominican Republic
and travel all over South America when he was young. Heīd married a
Spanish woman while age thirty.
He says the people of the Dominican Republic are economically
miserable now. And they have been for all of Porfideoīs life.
Todayīs tourism drives up the prices on the island so that many
locals can barely survive. The country claims its beaches are free,
but hotel resorts own chunks of beaches that no one else can go on.
"Hasta cuando hay gente rica, tiene que haber gente pobre." (As long
as there are rich people in the world, there are going to be poor
But, before Porfideo, came slightly slimy Jose. Jose said heīd been
using someoneīs credit card - found in his car after a weekend of
partying - for the past two weeks to pay toll road fees. The day I
rode with him was the day he learned the card had been canceled. He
only had a bit of change with him, so I sat and watched as he scraped
and argued his way through two toll booths.
Those were the souls who got me to Benidorm, in a timely manner and
Benidorm was a city for the tourist and consumer and vacationer
alike. High-rise hotels crowded Mediterranean beaches that fought
for place between the rocky coastal shelves. The city streets were
bright with bargain-bragging stores selling cheap clothes and
everthing, British supermarkets and bars, and other places of
Budget package deals filled the hotels with lower-class Brits. Many
of them may have come from Newcastle - the city of hooligans that had
been so cruel to me. All about town, lower-class Brits squawked
their accents like parakeets being throttled.
Other northern Europeans come to Benidorm too. My pal, Gaui Bergman,
had come there from Iceland. It was great to see a former co-worker
from Pizza67 in downtown Reykjavik. Now, Gaui operates his
web-design and advertising business out of Benidorm (pathseeker.com).
His clients include Millionaire, a private jet company in the U.S.
Blue-eyed, short-grayish-hued-haired Gaui showed me to a great time
in his city. We got competative in games of pool and mini-golf, and
we saw a hypnotist show. Gaui treated me nightly to pub crawls that
starred the sweet official drink of Benidorm: vodka and RedBull.
One night out, we caught a five a.m. breakfast. I ate tender, wet
Spanish meatballs, because Gaui insisted I "had to try Spanish
meatballs!" Of course, all those vodka-RedBulls had caused Gaui to
insist everything he said.
An interesting and very heated discussion occured between 28-year-old
Gaui and his 19-year-old brother, Binny. One guy they knew had taken
Binny out to the countryside in Iceland one time to look for elves.
Elves are often mentioned in Icelandic folklore, and this guy always
wanted to look for them. Binny commented on his elf search,
cynically: "I didnīt see anything. (The guy) was seeing elves
everywhere. I didnīt see any. I think he took a lot of ... "trips."
Gaui didnīt like Binnyīs impliance of drug use. Gaui said, "That guy
was a genius! He wasnīt from this world. If he saw elves, they were
there. If he saw elves, they were there." Binny quickly apologized,
admiring how open-minded this other guy was.
That guy had sadly died recently, while diving in Icelandīs coldest
lake (while wearing a wetsuit). He had been a good friend of Gauiīs
bro, Daniel Bergman, who is a very spiritual nature-loving guy and
one of Icelandīs top bird photographers.
Gaui called me a "viking" because I snorkeled while in Benidorm. The
cold water caused me to shutter afterwards. In a cove between
Benidormīs beautiful orange-rock capes, I observed a
blue-yellow-and-purple parrotfish more neon than Benidormīs signs.
Meanwhile, dear traveling Elaine was somewhere in the Spanish
interior. She was supposed to have come to Benidorm to hang out with
us, but she couldnīt get a hold of me whenever she tried to call ...
I thanked Gaui and went to hitchhike. Once again, I suffered a hot,
miserable, exhausting afternoon. No cars picked me up in over two
hours. (Iīd been hitchhiking in a bad spot, I realized.) I said
"Gothan dagen!" (Hello!) to Icelandic Gaui again and spent another
night in Benidorm.
Exhausted, I rode a European bus the next day. I went to meet Elaine
in Granada. But, because the hotel owner didnīt give Elaine my
message, we didnīt see each other until late at night.
In Granada, we toured La Alhambra and evaluated our relationship.
Elaine wore a "chic," tight, new black coat. Her hair had been dyed
black, and long black bangs flopped in front of one of her eyes, as
desirably as the January sun shines in Iceland.
Itīs been said, "If you die without seeing La Alhambra, then you
havenīt lived." La Alhambra is a big, walled-in complex of Muslim
palaces from the 9th century. Blue and white and periwinkle fresco
tiles and mirroring marble and strange Arabic script line the insides
of the palaces. The palaces enclose courtyards where white lion
statues guard fountains that spring all about with a sound so
soothing it carries you to the heavens. Flowers play together in
gardens, beneath fruit bushes whose oranges are a more brilliant
orange than Willy Wonka could make.
La Alhambra sits a ways up the dry mountains that surround Granada.
Looking out through the palacesī mosque-shaped windows, one can look
down to the beautiful city of Granada and its houses which are all as
white as a high religious personīs robe.
later. - Modern Oddyseus ... "If you die without reading all
two-hundred-and-forty of his travel stories, then you havenīt lived."
Thanks to Jose; Porfideo; George; and Juan for the lifts!
Much thanks to Gaui Bergman for the place to stay!
And the ... LATEST LOVE-LIFE LISTING: The Elaine-and-Justin team is now
"off." We do have strong feelings for each other.
Elaine has made a courageous decision and is currently visiting
Morrocco. Most people warn females not to go there by themselves.
(Iīm sure sheīll be fine.) Iīve turned to concentrating my focus on
my original plan of traveling around the world alone. Weīll see ...