Playa Tecolote

Trip Start Apr 11, 2010
Trip End May 20, 2010

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Flag of Mexico  , Baja California Sur,
Friday, April 30, 2010

From my campground it was a three hour drive through dull, mostly flat desert landscape to La Paz, southern Baja's largest city, and onward to a peninsula north of town with especially good beaches. At the tip of the short peninsula which juts into the sea of Cortez is Playa Tecolote (owl beach), described as one of the most beautiful beaches on the peninsula.

As I drive through the bumpy brown hills and arrive at Tecolote I am overcome by a strange sense of deja vu.  I feel like I've been here before, but I know I haven't.  I've seen the perfect sea in various shades of blue and green - jade, turquoise, and azure, the white sand and stones, the mangrove estuary, the hills behind the beach, and the island in the distance across the channel.

As I was planning for my trip about three or four weeks before I left Denver I had a dream about driving to Baja, up and down hills by the sea, waves lapping on the beach, palms and cacti and mangrove swamps around.  In the dream I stayed for a while and worked at a beach bar.  There was some dilemma in the dream about continuing on to Cabo to meet my friends or to stay at the beach permanently.  I thought little of the dream, assuming it was symbolic of some concerns on my mind.  No other place on Baja in any way reminded me of the images in the dream but Tecolote looks exactly as I remember it.  And I also don't recall seeing any pictures of the beach before the dream that might have induced the specific images.  Oh well!

Frolicking in the sea, sun drying, reading an interesting book in the shade of a palapa on the beach - this is the life!  When it's time for dinner I check out the little restaurants on the beach and settle on a kilogram-size whole grilled pargo (snapper) - fresh, massive, and delicious.

The days are warm, the nights cool and breezy enough for some perfect camping.  The good life continues for the next couple days as I laze on the beach at Tecolote and equally beautiful nearby Playa Balendra, and feast on margaritas and glorious fresh seafood at the beach restaurants, little shacks whose appearance belies their culinary excellence exhibited in such dishes as:

- Ostiones a la Diabla (grilled oysters is spicy mayonnaise)

- Almejas Rellenas (local "chocolate" clams stuffed with cheese and pico de gallo, closed, and grilled wrapped in aluminum foil)

- Sopa de Almejas Santa Catarina (meatiest clam chowder ever with lime, avocado, and cilantro)

- Tostadas con Escabeche de Marlin, Ceviche de Camaron, and Ceviche de Pescado

- Pargo a la Plancha (grilled whole snapper).

I'm in paradise!

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