Through Central France
Trip Start
Apr 30, 2004
1
24
34
Trip End
May 09, 2004
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Le Puy,
France
Thursday, May 6, 2004
Route N 86 brings us to our next sight, the Ardeche Gorge. http://www.vallon-pont-darc.com/.
Although the mountains here are not high, the River Ardeche cuts a deep canyon through the white limestone creating a spectacular vista. The road winds up and down the sides of the canyon for about 20 miles. At one point we stop and walk down a wooded path to see the spectacular arch. This is the only rock arch anywhere in the world where a river actually runs through it (though I hear the Chinese dispute this fact)
01. Natural Arch, Gorges d'Ardeche
. It is 170 ft. high, and is an immensely popular stop for boaters and tubers, though there was only one kayaker testing the frigid waters while we were there. Once out of the gorge, we continue on RN 102 and then RN 88 through splendid hilly scenery to the town of Le Puy en Velay. At one point we cross the continental divide, at which spot water to the left of us flows to the Atlantic, and water to the right to the Mediterranean. It is now getting dark, and we espy an advertisement for an Ibis Hotel. It's already 9:30 pm, so we decide to stop here to eat and then come to a decision if we stay for the night and continue early next morning.
http://www.ot-lepuyenvelay.fr/versionanglaise/siteang/images/arc/j1.html.
We park our car in the city centre and walk around looking for another wonderful restaurant. Unfortunately by now it is raining again, and we are tired and not in the mood to go sightseeing. There are several restaurants and bars around the main square, but Monaco is playing Chelsea for the European Cup semifinals, and most are full of exuberant fans. We see a likely place called Café du Palais, and enter. Although it is more bar than palace, there is no soccer, instead there is a glamorous blond chanteuse
02. Continental Divide
. The owner approaches us and we ask if there is any food still available. He rushes into the kitchen to collar the cook who is slipping out the back door, and happily advises us that there is still some plat du jour left. The price is right, the singer starts on the "tourist" tune of Champs Elysée', probably just for us, as the regulars do not seem all that enthusiastic. We sit upstairs in the mezzanine, and applaud passionately each song. We are served what could well be chicken cordon bleu, but we are not quite sure. It certainly isn't haut cuisine, but it tastes quite good, and is filling. The total for five of us with wine is € 66.00 (US$ 80.00). Beggars can't be choosers, and the owner turned out to be a really nice individual. Though we were unable to pronounce his name, Miryam called him Pierre, he was very helpful pointing out where we may be able to get hotel accommodation. His recommendation for a cheap night...the Etap Hotel near the railway station.
