Sur le Pont d"Avignon

Trip Start Apr 30, 2004
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Trip End May 09, 2004


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Thursday, May 6, 2004

Our next stop is the city of Avignon, famed for the children's song "sur le pont d'Avignon" http://www.phespirit.info/places/1998_05_avignon_1.htm. And the fact that for a few years, between 1305 to 1378, it was the residence of the popes and centre of the Roman Catholic Church. http://www.ukans.edu/kansas/medieval/108/lectures/avignon.html. This is a sophisticated city, second only to Aix in Provence. Parking at a mega-lot just outside of the city walls, we walk through the streets enjoying the ambiance. On one shopping street Bryan espies, believe it or not, a Foot Locker, complete with sales assistants dressed in traditional black and white umpire uniforms, and miracle of miracles, they have a sneaker in size 12 of the style Bryan has been looking for. After this little triumph, we visit the Palace Square and ascend the steps to the Pope's Palace. We don't enter, as we have read that it is somewhat empty of furnishings. We then comb the narrow winding streets behind the palace, eventually arriving back at the parking lot. http://www.provenceweb.fr/e/vaucluse/avignon/avignon.htm.

We cross the mighty Rhône River to view the original Pont St-Benezet, the medieval bridge Avignon is so famous for. This was one of the only bridges crossing the Rhône in the middle ages, until it was washed away in a flood and never rebuilt. There are just four arches left of the original 22, but it is still a splendid sight from the other side of the river with the Pope's Palace towering above. We park the car beside the river walk to take some photos, but are whistled at by local security guards. We cannot park there, but must park in the designated area a few yards downstream. Parking really is a serious matter here!

After admiring the views, we continue 12 miles on Route N 100 towards Pont du Gard. This is one of the most remarkable of Roman constructions to be found anywhere. It was part of a 30-mile aqueduct that supplied the city of Nîmes with 100 gallons a water a second. I kid you not, even today this would be a significant achievement, and 2,000 years ago it was stupendous. http://perso.wanadoo.fr/gilbert.lamouroux/Index.htm (in French, but good pictures).

Just as we enter the modern ticket plaza, it starts to rain, and it won't stop until we leave. We have no umbrellas or raincoats, so we just continue walking, getting somewhat wet in the bargain. At one point we actually shelter under the massive arches while Bryan ascends to the top of the monument by steep paths. We cross the River Gard on the lower arches. The middle arch is 80 feet across, and is the largest span ever built by the Romans. Once again we are fortunate that there a few other visitors, as in the summer, day trippers come here en masse to also enjoy the river activities such as canoeing and tubing, as well as picnicking on the river banks.
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