Medieval Village
Trip Start
Apr 30, 2004
1
27
34
Trip End
May 09, 2004
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Les Baux-de-Provence,
France
Friday, May 7, 2004
I need some more cash, so the family drops me off at an ATM and go around the block while I do the transaction. Transaction done, I wait for the family to pick me up, and I wait, and I wait. I wonder how they could have got lost just driving around the block. They finally turn up after ten minutes from a totally different direction
01. Les-Baux-en-Provence
. Did they stop off for a coffee or some sightseeing? They tell me that going around the block in France is not the same as going around the block in the United States. In their journey they went down one cul-de-sac, two one-way streets, were stuck in a traffic jam and got quite lost three times. They ended up on the peripheral highway and were obliged to do a U turn to get back into town. http://www.provenceweb.fr/e/bouches/stremy/stremy.htm,
Without time to visit St-Remy, we continue south into Les Alpilles Mountains to the town of Les Baux-de-Provence. This spectacular medieval hilltop town and castle was razed and abandoned in 1632. Since then, a few people drifted back to inhabit the lower town and restoration commenced, but the citadel remained in ruins. Presently there are about 500 residents, though most of the buildings have been converted to shops, art galleries and restaurants, just like Eze. And like Eze, it is incredibly crowded during the summer months, with attendant traffic jams on the narrow mountain roads, and full to overflowing parking lots. We are fortunate that it is very quiet at this time of year, which makes it all the more fascinating as we visit chapels, churches, the cemetery and wander through the steep cobbled alleys towards the castle. There is an entry fee to the castle, which includes an audio guide. As mentioned, the castle is still in ruins, but the location, right at the pinnacle of Les Alpilles is nothing less than spectacular. From the castle grounds one can just see to the distant Mediterranean and the city of Marseilles. All around are beautiful olive groves and vineyards. It was here that the mineral used for making aluminum was discovered in 1858, giving it the name of bauxite. The castle is a honeycomb of ruined passageways, underground rooms, lookouts and steps, steps and more steps. It's also extremely windy and cold on the higher parts. http://www.provenceweb.fr/e/bouches/baux/baux.htm.
