Le Train Bleu

Trip Start Apr 30, 2004
1
14
34
Trip End May 09, 2004


Loading Map
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow

Flag of France  ,
Tuesday, May 4, 2004

We locate the platform, and the train is ready for boarding. This is the famous Train Bleu. This train has been running from Paris to the French Riviera overnight since the railways were first opened in the 1850s. It's heyday was in the 1920s, when it was one of the fastest and most luxurious trains in the world. Bronislava Nijinska created a ballet called Le Train Bleu in 1924, and Picasso actually painted the stage curtain for the first performance. Agatha Christie wrote "The Mystery of the Blue Train" in which her Belgian detective Hercule Poirot solves the murder of an American heiress between Paris and Nice. One of the world's most beautiful restaurants is named after it, also an exotic online shopping site, and a musical group.

We are excited in anticipation of this grand journey, which has cost us € 108.00 each. Although we are not expecting an Orient Express, we feel somewhat disappointed when we see the carriages stretching down the platform 01. Gare d'Austerlitz
01. Gare d'Austerlitz
. Nothing extraordinary, just grey and blue rolling stock looking a bit aged beside the sleek T.G.V. parked beside it. The T.G.V. would have whisked us to Monte Carlo in six hours. Le Train Bleu will take twelve hours.

The guard checks out tickets with passports, and ushers us through to the platform. On locating our carriage we board the train and enter our compartment. We find that each small compartment contains six narrow bunks, three on each side of the compartment. The compartment already contains two other male passengers who will share the accommodation with the four of us for the rest of the night. Rocio, who purchased her ticket later, is two carriages down from us. The gentlemen have snagged an upper and lower bunk, leaving one upper, one lower and two middle bunks for us. We salute them with a "bon nuit", and their answer is about the only thing we hear from them for the rest of the trip. They are fast asleep long before the train leaves the station and are obviously regular passengers on this route. As a matter of interest, you are not expected to change into pajamas, you sleep fully clothed (with your shoes off, of course). We wonder how Rocio is getting on.

The accommodation is cramped. There is no where to sit and hardly anywhere to stand 02. Off to the Riviera.
02. Off to the Riviera.
. We explore the rest of the train hoping to find sustenance, or perhaps somewhere to sit before we turn in. There is no dining car, just a machine that serves coffee, sodas and packaged snacks. There is no seating at all on this train. You either lie in your bunk, or you stand in the corridor. We elected to stand to watch Paris drift by in the gathering darkness. We all used the toilet (one per carriage) before it got too abused, and finally settled in to sleep through France.

It's rather strange sleeping in a train. On an aircraft, one sits upright attempting to accommodate ones body in an "L" shape. On a ship, it's smooth going in a cabin. In the car, one usually snoozes out of exhaustion. On this sleeper train I have a full length bunk with sheets, blankets and a pillow, but somehow the movement of the train won't allow me to drop off. It seems to be going awfully fast around the curves, and I have panicky thoughts about it jumping the tracks. The rest of the family and our companions seem deep in the land of nod, and I suppose I eventually arrive there too.

More Pictures

03. Paris to Monaco 03. Paris to Monaco  
Slideshow Print this entry Paris hotels