O Algarve

  Lagos and Silves, Portugal
Monday, October 9, 2006

Terço día
Segunda 9

1. Dawn at Salema

The morning is picture perfect. The early sunshine illuminates the beach and the village in rich colours only seen at daybreak and dusk. We are up at the crack of dawn and walk along the beach towards the headland and the newer town built high on a ledge glisteningly white above the startlingly blue sea. Some fishing boats are putting to sea, and some are arriving with the night's catch. The truly gorgeous morning is followed by a lavish breakfast at our guest house.

2. The terrace at Pensão a Mare

As usual, our day is planned and full of sights. First stop is the coastal town of Lagos. Lagos was capital of the Algarve in the 13th. and 14th. centuries, and although it is now surrounded by holiday condos, the city centre has kept its small town charm. It is still almost completely encircled by medieval walls. After hustling to park in a prime spot on the waterfront, we start our exploration by the old slave market. 

3. Lagos church steeple

Strolling through the narrow streets, we can see Moorish and Portuguese influence which blends so remarkably. We stop by the post office to buy stamps and postcards. The post office works on a number system. You take your number, which is eventually illuminated on a board above the clerk who will attend you. All the post offices we visited were extremely busy with waits of up to ten minutes. It's not so bad because as you have a number, you can wander around until your turn comes up. On the other hand, if you miss it, you have to start all over again.

We visit the impressive ultra-modern market and enjoy a coffee by the harbour. On the other side of the harbour lines of condos fade into the east along a magnificent sandy beach.

4. Algarve beach

We elect to walk to the exotic rock formations of the eastern beaches, which are magnificent. If we had longer we would have taken a tour boat to see the full extent of these incredible formations and grottos.  

Back to the motorway, we bypass busy Portimão and Albufeira and head inland to the medieval Moorish town of Silves.  

We approach the town over an ancient Roman bridge and find parking easily beside the river. Most of the streets in the historical centre are pedestrian only and we wander along cobbled lanes to the lovely Praça Large Jeronimo Osório. Here we find some terrific outdoor restaurants.  Miryam converses with one of the waiters at the Casa Velha and finds the owner is Brazilian. We have to eat here, and Miryam orders a typical Brazilian picanha. I want to keep to sea food, so I select a feijoada de choco, a cooked bean dish with squid. Both choices were superb at €19.50. We drop in at the tourist office, and the girl there (who commutes from Lagos every day) happily tells us the history of the town, and even the latest gossip.

5. Café Inglés in Silves

We then climb the steep streets to the castle, past the Café Inglés and enjoy the views over the green countryside.