Cidade alta - Upper City

  Lisbon, Portugal
Sunday, October 8, 2006

Primeiro Día
Sábado 7

Time is so short, so after a brief rest, we venture out into Lisbon, planning to take Rick Steve's "Three Lisbons" walk covering Chiado (Bairro Alto), Lower town (Bairro Baixa) and Alfama. 

1. Upper city street scene

Crossing over the Praça Restauradores, we arrive at our first point of reference, the Gloria Funicular. This strange streetcar ascends the steep incline from the Cidade Baixa to the Cidade Alta (Lower to Upper City). When we arrive at the base of the incline, all we find is a very large box with a streetcar painted on it. We are not quite sure what to make of this. Is this some perverse joke? We can see the rails coming out from underneath the box, but there is no way this box is going to ascend the slope. Eventually a kind native explains that the while system is being renovated, and the streetcar is underneath the box being protected against the elements until it can climb once more to the Alta Cidade. Regrettably we now have to hoof it up the gradient, looking forward to the glorious view that awaits us from the Miradouro São Pedro. Imagine our dismay when we eventually arrive at the top to find that the park with the stupendous view is also closed for overhaul. There is no view. We share our disappointment with a vociferous Italian group, whose tour escort tries to get the group into the patio of the Santa Clara Casino which shares the view, but the unaccommodating watchman says no. Miryam, in her frustration rattles the padlocked gates, and almost gets arrested by the irritating sentinel.

2. Upper City street scene

We are now in the Chiado District, with narrow cobbled streets and buildings covered in typical Portuguese "azulejo" tiles. Wandering the lanes we find the famous Cervejaria da Trinidade, and experience the first of many excellent seafood dishes we are to enjoy throughout our stay. A Cervejaria da Trinidade was opened 1836 and is located in the refractory of the Convento dos Frades Trinos, originally constructed in 1283. Decorated with magnificent panels of azulejos, it's the oldest and most beautiful restaurant in Lisbon. They also have their own microbrewery on site.    

Our wanderings bring us to the elegant Rua Garrett, with its glamorous shopping and famous restaurants, best known being "A Brasileira", a hangout of poets and bohemians.  At the nearby church we witness a wedding. On the corner of the Praça Camões, we await the No. 28 tram that will take us back through the lower town and up to the Alfama District and Castelo São Jorge.

3. No. 28 tram

Services operate about every seven minutes. Our Aerobus ticket is valid for this service, and the tram soon trundles around the corner, regrettably so full that we have to stand.

This is the classic tram route of Lisbon on extensive hilly and narrow streets through the  Alfama district. We pass the city centre, crossing Augusta Street, which we will visit later. There is now steep, twisting section as the route leaves Lisbon centre up the Calçada de S.
Francisco. On the ascent, someone has parked their car on the rails, and the tram is stuck. Luckily the diminutive No. 37 bus drives up behind. We jump off the tram and into the bus, which goes right up to the gates of the castle.This tiny bus reminds us of the one we took a couple of years ago in Paris, the Montmartrobus, which negotiated the narrow lanes of Montmartre.

4. Alfama District

Alfama is one of the oldest areas of Lisbon, dominated by the Castelo São Jorge. Originally it had been inhabited by Moors in the 8th century and its name derives from Arabic. Due to the fact that it is built on solid rock, it survived the 1755 earthquake and is today the most picturesque area of modern-day Lisbon. Though the quarter is now a bit rundown, to the regret of many, it is being "gentrified" as young executives, tired of the morning commute, are purchasing properties and restoring them.

Castelo São Jorge is an impressive Moorish castle constructed in 1147 on the highest point in the area, with stunning 360° views over the city and Tagus River.

5. View of the Tagus from castle

Old age pays, and I am able to enter the castle free of charge (young Miryam, however, is charged full admission!). The stucture is relatively intact and we wander fascinated around courtyards and along  ramparts. We are happy to see that the refreshment stand sells Brazilian Guarana soda.

Outside of the castle, we negotiate the narrow cobblestone lanes of the medieval section. It's true, all kinds of washing hangs from the windows, just like the postcards! Walking down one of its many stairs, enjoying the beautiful violet, red and yellow flowers and palm trees, we arrive at the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, which offers a great views over the lower parts of Alfama and the Tagus River. The walls of the adjointing Santa Luzia Church are covered with  typical Portuguese blue and white ceramics. From here, it is a short walk along the waterfront to the impressive Praça do Comércio.