Esplendor Religioso - Religious Splendour

  Coimbra, Batalha, Fatima and Nazaré, Portugal
Wednesday, October 11, 2006

At Batalha, we visit the magnificent monastery of Santa Maria.

1. Doorway to the Monastery

Although traffic from the A1 roars past the entrance, and in spite of being located in a rather nondescript village, it is surely one of Portugal's finest architectural achievements. For a small country, Portugal has so many extraordinary religious buildings and we were to visit just a few. Each one overwhelmed us in splendor and beauty.

2. Decorative dome. Batalha

This great monastery was built to commemorate the final independence of Portugal from Spain, and contains the chapels and tombs of the first Portuguese monarchs.

After Batalha, we continue through the pretty countryside to one of the great shrines of the Roman Catholic faith, Fatima.

3. Fatima Basilica

The immense plaza facing the basilica can accommodate over 300,000 pilgrims, which arrive to celebrate the apparitions of the Virgin Mary every 13th. day of the month from May to October. It's relatively quiet when we arrive, but it will be packed to overflowing in a couple of days, with many people traversing the entire plaza on their knees. Since leaving Évora we have noticed groups of people walking on the roadside. We now realise that these are penitents on their pilgrimage to the shrine.

The basilica, which was started in 1928, is huge, but not as overwhelming as the Gothic cathedrals of Portugal's apogee.

4. Interior of Fatima Basilica

The interior is bright and cheerful, with the icon of the Virgin of Fatima standing in a side chapel beside the tombs of the three visionaries. For the full story access fatima-direct.com. We visit the busiest gift shop we have seen up to now.     
 
We now continue to the seaside town of Nazaré. There we have selected the Ribamar Hotel, recommended by Rick Steves, which is located right on the promenade. It's an excellent choice and very reasonably priced. One small problem is parking, as there is absolutely nothing nearby and I had to drive the car many blocks and leave it all night on the street. Although our room is on the side of the building, if we stick our heads out far enough we can see the extensive beach and the breakers beyond. In hotel jargon, not ocean front, but ocean view! We dine at the hotel restaurant, fish of course. I try Bacalhao a Ribamar and Miryam enjoys Lulas ao Forno com batatas.  FYI, bacalhao is cod and lula is squid. Both plates are memorable, and afterwards we enjoy a brisk stroll along the promenade to settle our repast.