Caminho ao Algarve 2

  Aljezur, Cabo São Vicente and Salema, Portugal
Sunday, October 8, 2006

After a brief respite, we continue down the coast towards the Algarve, stopping at the village of Aljezur. This little town is reminiscent of the "white towns" of Andalucia. Of Moorish origin, even the name is Arabic, it is dominated by a ruined castle, with narrow streets and whitewashed houses cascading down the hillside to the river. We visit the castle, and then descend through the village.

1. Aljezur. It's a tight fit!

The lane gets narrower and narrower to such an extent that even out little VW just doesn't fit. We now have to literally reverse back up the hill almost to the castle. We notice as we get to the top there is an old rusty sign prohibiting motorized traffic in the village. That's why all the residents were a bit unsympathetic at our plight. We finally extract ourselves and can continue on our way past lovely surfing beaches to Cabo São Vicente, most southwesterly point in Europe, called in fact, "The End of Europe".

2. Atlantic beaches

It's an impressive sight, with a turquoise sea beating against the lofty sheer sides of the headland. It was here that Prince Henry the Navigator built his school and from where the renown explorers Bartolomeu Dias, Vasco da Gama, Fernão de Magalhães and Pedro Alvaro Cabral set out to discover new worlds.

3. Cabo São Vicente

It is getting late, so rather than wait for sunset, we continue west to today's destination, the fishing village of Salema. Here we have reserved space at the highly recommended Pensão A Mare.

4. Our room at Pensão A Mare

At € 60.00, it's the most expensive place on our trip. But we are not disappointed. A Mare is a guest house offering B&B style accommodation, just a block from the beach. It is quiet and comfortable, and, may I say, quite fully booked. This is the only time we were obliged to use single beds. Gives Miryam a rest I suppose!

The Village of Salema is one of the very few communities in the Algarve supporting a small indigenous fishing fleet of traditional brightly coloured boats, still launched from the beach (but now with the aid of a tractor). 

5. Fishing boats at Salema

They put out to sea when the surf allows, to catch sea bass, bream, mackerel, sardines and octopus which you can savour freshly grilled in the local restaurants the same evening. It's perhaps one of the most unspoilt fishing villages on the Algarve. Narrow cobbled streets wind past fisherman's cottages, and we find a quiet, friendly atmosphere in our beachfront restaurant, where we enjoy fresh Tuna Algarve style and grilled mahi mahi. The superb dinner, including a bottle of vinho verde, comes to just € 32.00.