Machu Picchu
Trip Start
May 11, 2006
1
13
15
Trip End
May 21, 2006
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Machu Picchu,
Peru
Wednesday, May 17, 2006
After a very good breakfast, we walk down to the bus stop and pile aboard a shiny new Brazilian bus which will take us up the winding road to the entrance. The road, which is still not surfaced, is a thrilling switchback ride up a precipitous mountainside. Looking up from the valley floor, even today there is absolutely no trace of any man-made structures up above, so imagine the surprise when Yale archaeologist Hiram Bingham was shown to the overgrown ruins by a local farmer in 1911.
We disembark, make use of the bathrooms, and proceed to the gate to purchase our tickets. Imagine our distress when the young lady advises us tickets can only be purchased back in Aguas Calientes at the official government ticket office in the main plaza
1. Kodak shot with renown model
. Didn't anyone tell us? We are aghast, imagining that someone would have to go back down to the town to get the tickets, wasting at least an hour for the round trip. Finally, the woman takes pity on us, and prints out tickets for us on her computer. She tells us it wasn't normal practice, but as we were early and there were not many people around yet, she will help us out. Phew! It seems like everyone else knew except us.Machu Picchu lies on a ridge formed by a U-bend in the Urubamba River. The site is at about 8,500 feet and consists of a mixture of agricultural, domestic and ceremonial areas. It is one of the few Inca sites not plundered by the Spaniards and was only rediscovered in the early 20th century. The overgrowth has been cleared, but the site is maintained mostly as it was found, with very little reconstruction or restoration necessary.
We enter the archeological site and climb a steep path through shady groves to the Watchman's Hut, at one of the highest points. From here we enjoy a panoramic view of the citadel, and see for ourselves the classic postcard view of Machu Picchu, with ourselves as the models.
From here we descend by terraces and paths and through the principal gate into the town
2. New-born llama
. We explore the temples, with incredibly fine Inca stonework, and stop at the Inca sundial. The Intihuatana, Quechua for "hitching post of the sun," was built on a pyramid utilizing the natural landscape. The carved rock at the top of the pyramid was used by Inca astronomers to predict the solstices and the time of year. This is the only well preserved Intihuatana in the Inca kingdom: the others were destroyed by Spanish Conquistadors who considered the Inca sun worship to be blasphemy.To one side of the temple is the main plaza, a large grassy area now inhabited by alpacas and llamas. A tiny baby alpaca wobbles around beside its mother. We are told the alpaca was born only the day before, inside the very watchman's hut we had just visited.
Near the end of the ridge, to the south of Machu Picchu, a spire rises nearly 1,000' above the ruins. Amazingly, the Inca developed and farmed this spire, as well. Huayna Picchu translates as "Young Peak", http://www.climber.org/TripReports/2002/856.html
This is a tough climb and only Michael, Cecilia, Wendy, Karen and Bryan elect to attempt it, while Miryam, Charlotte and I decline. I've done this climb twice before, and I can attest that it's very steep, very narrow and exhausting. For this reason the authorities count everyone that attempts it, and limits the numbers to 300 a day (Bryan was No
3. Bryan is 128
. 128).When we arrived, at about 9:00 am, we had had the site almost to ourselves, as you can see on the photos. Nevertheless, while the brave hearts were ascending Huayna Picchu, we can see the area filling fast, as hordes of tourists arrive on the early morning trains out from Cuzco. By now we had seen the most important sights, and could relax and watch the groups being escorted around with their local guides. Coming from Cuzco, one has about 3 hours in the archaeological site, and being relatively small, it's generally enough for the regular escorted tour group. But to arrive early and have Machu Picchu all to yourself is priceless.
When the intrepid climbers return, we enjoy some lavishly priced sandwiches and beverages (Orient Express owns the tiny 32-bedroom hotel and all the meal concessions at the summit) and then descend to Aguas Calientes to finish packing and get to the station in time for our train back to Cuzco. The train leaves at 3:55 pm (not 4:00 pm!) and should have arrived in Cuzco at 8:20 pm. But even Orient Express isn't perfect, and ascending out of the valley of the Urubamba, the train breaks down. We shunt backwards and forwards for about an hour, and then fortunately we are off again, arriving in Cuzco at about 9:10 pm. Our trusty Antonio and his Toyota van are waiting for us, as we are whisked to our now familiar Pension Qusqo.
