Moray and Maras
Trip Start
May 11, 2006
1
9
15
Trip End
May 21, 2006
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Maras,
Peru
Sunday, May 14, 2006
The archaeological group of Moray was only located by an expedition in 1932 when flying over the area. Cultivation terraces in concentric rings make up the circular units of Moray. Each circle comprises a terrace that overlaps the other, forming circles that get wider. You can go from one to the other climbing the prominent stones nailed into the wall. Experts surmise that these terraced circular depressions were used to study the effects of different climatic conditions on crops. The depth of the pits (the largest is about 30 m deep) creates a temperature gradient of as much as 15° C between the top and the bottom. As with many other Inca sites, it also has a very sophisticated irrigation system for providing the plants with water
1. Barley field
. http://www.cusco-peru.org/cusco-surroundings-cusco-circuits- moray.shtml
The youngsters decide to descend to the bottom of the depressions, which is easy enough. It's getting back up to the top that's the drawback. Miryam and Martin wait them out on the top.
The next stop is the salt pans of Maras. We arrive at the brilliant whiteness of three thousand salt pools that illuminate terraces clinging to the steep side of the Qaqawiñay ravine. It's a very spectacular sight. During the dry season, workers fill the pools with salt water that comes from natural springs at the top of the Maras complex, and when the water evaporates from the pool the salt is left for collection. This process takes about 10 days until the pools reach an approximate volume of solid salt that is 10 centimeters (4 inches) thick. The salt is ground up, treated with iodine, and packaged and sent to the various markets of the region, a system that is virtually unchanged from the methods used by the Incas.
http://www.cusco-peru.org/cusco-surroundings-cusco-circuits- maras.shtml
Antonio suggests we walk beside the salt pans and continue down the ravine to the Urubamba River, which is crossed by a bridge
2. Terraces of Moray
. Although it seems a long hike, it is all downhill. The only tour group we have seen up to now (French, but of course) accompanies us for the first few metres, then retreat to their tour bus. We carry on following the salty stream until it eventually peters out, incapable of filling another pool. From here a steep stony path descends to the riverside, from where we can see the bridge upstream. It's a rickety wooden suspension bridge, which doesn't look at all well maintained. This is why Antonio has played it safe, and stayed on the other side with the mini-van. The Urubamba, which eventually runs into the Amazon and thousands of miles hence will arrive at the Atlantic Ocean, is merely white water here. As soon as we cross over, we are off again of a good road through the valley passing rich irrigated farmland. Before long we arrive at the Inca village of Ollantaytambo. We bounce over the rough cobblestone streets into the main plaza searching for our hotel. As we enter the plaza, we are halted by a policeman. We are all a bit surprised, but the surprise turns into vexation when we find that Antonio is being ticketed for not wearing his seat belt, with an additional fine for the passenger (me) not wearing his either. The frustrating fact is that we had both been wearing seatbelts throughout the day, but had not bothered to "click in" on the last portion of our trip from the bridge
4. Bridge over the Urubamba
. Antonio has almost talked his way out of the ticket, when Miryam leans out of the back window and starts berating the policemen, accusing him of picking on tourists!After that disagreeable episode, we are directed to the hotel, which is back on the road we had come in on. No comments.
The hotel seems agreeable enough. The Ollantaytambo Lodge is a modern two-story structure built around a grassy enclosure. To one side is a very modern looking bar, and opposite is a small restaurant. The rooms are simple but clean and comfortable. The location is impressive surrounded by stunning mountainsides. http://www.ollantaytambolodge.com/
We elect not to eat at the hotel, but see if we can find somewhere to eat in the town, which is a big disappointment for the cook, who had been waiting for us. In compensation, we tell him we will have dinner with him the next day.
As soon as we have showered and changed, we walk into the town. The main square is quite lively, but we are recommended a restaurant down the road towards the railway station
4. Salt Pans of Maras
. The Kusicoyllor Restaurant looks surprisingly attractive. Great décor and a varied menu of Novo - Andina cuisine, and though the service and the food could have been better, on the whole it is an enjoyable experience. http://www.ollantaytambo.org/en/servr01.phpOn the way back to the hotel we meet Antonio and another man fiddling with the mini-van. We are told that it has broken down, and that the agency will be sending another one from Cuzco first thing in the morning. The driver would also have our train tickets.
We gave the bar a miss, as we were all exhausted.
