A stroll through Buenos Aires

Trip Start Apr 29, 2005
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Trip End May 08, 2005


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Saturday, April 30, 2005

Day One - Saturday
After a short nap, we venture forth into the city. The hotel is located just half a block from Calle Florida, the celebrated pedestrian shopping street. It's bustling on this Saturday morning and we admire the variety of shops and the reasonable prices. Just a few yards down the street are Galerias Pacifico. This magnificent building was constructed at the end of the 19th. century. For most of its life it served as the offices of the Buenos Aires Railway Company. It was converted to a wonderful shopping mall in 1992. The interior is by far the most splendid commercial building I have seen anywhere. It is truly a work of art and a joy to visit. The shopping and restaurants are not bad either.

One of the items we have left to arrange is our trip to Mendoza. We drop by a travel agent, who quotes us US$ 200.00 each for the airfare, which isn't too bad and certainly better than online back in the USA. Back at the hotel, Pedro the concierge had advised that we should take the bus. We felt a 12-hour bus journey for a two-day stay was a bit over the top. He explained that the bus, which has fully reclining seats just like beds, runs overnight, departing Buenos Aires in the evening and arriving in Mendoza the next morning. By taking the overnight bus, we loose no travel time, and save on two nights of hotel. They even serve dinner and breakfast during the trip. We put the air tickets on hold and stroll over to the Retiro Bus Terminal to learn more.

Continuing along Florida we arrive at Plaza San Martin. 01. Galerias Pacifico
01. Galerias Pacifico
This is an elegant part of the city, where the best hotels are located. The Plaza is a lovely wooded green oasis overlooking the transportation hubs of Buenos Aires, three railway stations, the River Plate and the huge bus terminal.

Many years ago I had left Buenos Aires by international train to Peru, a 5-day epic journey. In those days, the magnificent Retiro Station had been thronged by crowds travelling to all parts of Argentina and the neighbouring countries of Chile, Paraguay, Brazil, and Bolivia. Now it is a shadow of itself. The bustling platforms are empty and the elegant restaurants and shops abandoned. The three impressive railway stations standing side by side now just serve suburban traffic, and bustle only at morning and afternoon rush hours. Sad, but that's progress.

Where's all the action now? In the neighbouring bus terminal. 75 platforms with up to 2,000 daily departures. Here sleek double-decker buses set forth to all the destinations once served by the trains. We check on Mendoza, and select CATA for our trip. The price is US$ 80.00 return. It's saving us two nights accommodation, two dinners and two breakfasts, as well as taking us 1,000 kilometers from the Atlantic Ocean across the wide pampas to the foot of the Andes Mountains. I can't think of a better bargain anywhere. Cancel the air tickets!

After purchasing our tickets, we return towards the city and ascend the English Clock Tower, a gift from the Anglo-Argentine community in 1910. Magnificent views from the top over the city and River Plate. The tower is located in Argentine Air Force Square and is an uneasy neighbour of the poignant Monument to the Fallen in the Malvinas (Falklands) War.

Back in town, we cross the magnificent Avenida 9 de Julio to the Colon Theatre. This fabulous showpiece offers tours to visitors every hour, and is an obligatory stop on any visit to this city. This is considered one of the world's great theatres, modeled on Milan's La Scala, and is acoustically one of the most perfect venues anywhere. We learn there is a ballet performance on Saturday evening, Tchaikovsky's "The Sleeping Beauty" performed by the National Ballet. The cost of US$ 25.00 each seems very reasonable indeed.

We continue our sightseeing, visiting the National Congress and taking the underground to the Presidential Palace (Casa Rosada), visiting the new Puerto Madero Complex, built in the disused docklands of Buenos Aires. We were expecting good shopping, but found only a plethora of elegant restaurants. By this time we are exhausted and stop at a sidewalk café for a delicious Italian repast.
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