Into the Andes
Trip Start
Apr 29, 2005
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6
10
Trip End
May 08, 2005
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MendozA,
Argentina
Tuesday, May 3, 2005
Our destinations for today are to drive into the Andes and visit a vineyard on the way back. We start our climb towards Puente del Inca into the Andes. Mendoza is at 810 mts (2,650 ft), so we have been going uphill imperceptibly since leaving B.A. Now we really start to climb, up to 3,000 mts. (9,000 ft), near the Chilean border.
We see in the distance a solid wall of snow-capped peaks which we approach over desert-like pampas. Soon we are in the foothills, arid and dry
01. Could someone pull out the plug, please?
. To our right we see Lake Potrerillos, a reservoir. At a road junction, the sign points to the lake recreation area. This seems like the original road, which is confirmed as shortly it ends by running directly into the lake and disappearing under its clear waters. Not being a country obsessed with law suits and protection of stupid citizens, the end of the road is not fenced or barricaded. There's not even a sign warning you of its impending conclusion. We are amused taking photos of the car half in and half out of the water. The road continues ascending to the Uspallata Valley. Up to now the highway has been almost deserted, somewhat strange considering this is the most utilized transandine route of South America. When we arrive at Uspallata, we see why. A line of trailers stretches as far as the eye can see along the side of the road. There must be hundreds of them. We are not sure if we have to wait in line too. We are soon instructed otherwise by a honking car behind us. I turn my head and see the driver waving for us to continue. We drive tentatively past the snaking parade of Argentinean, Chilean, Brazilian and Uruguayan behemoths and eventually we sail past the customs post that they all have to present themselves to.
It's autumn in South America and the leaves on the trees are at their most glorious red and yellow shades, the breeze making them dance so it seems the whole countryside is shimmering in fall colours
02. Puente del Inca. Disused spa.
. We stop at a tourist office and find we are less than an hour from the Puente del Inca, but that the road now ascends seriously. We are presently at 2,000 mts. We have 1,000 mts to go. Remember it took us 12 hours, all night, to ascent just 810 mts. from B.A. to Mendoza. Now heavy traffic increases as we encounter the trucks that have been processed at the customs post, and it feels more like an international highway. Unfortunately the thoroughfare gets more tenuous, in poor repair and with some major road works causing congestion on the roof of South America. Thanks to some skilful driving of yours truly, we wind our way to our destination, passing the closed ski resort of Penitentes. During the winter, a couple of months hence, this area will be entirely snow-covered, though at this time we see snow only on the peaks. We search for Aconcagua, the highest American mountain, to no avail.
One of Argentina's most striking sights, situated 2720m (8920ft) above sea level, is Puente del Inca, a natural stone bridge spanning the Río Mendoza. The ruins of a 20's hotel crouch below the overhang. The whole edifice was swept away in an avalanche in 1965 and this is the only remaining part. The area is now a national park. Inside the ruined "hotel", natural hot sulphurized water direct from the centre of the earth still runs through the bathrooms of the dank and spooky rooms
03. Drunk already!
. Cecilia and Bryan take off their shoes and paddle in the warm odiferous water underneath the natural bridge. It's time to return if we want to catch the last tour of the Norton Vineyards. Other than a few queues waiting to get through the road works, we are soon back to the lowlands and arrive at the vineyard at 5:05 pm. The guard at the gatehouse promises to hold the tour for us. We hurry to the reception area, and are attached to the "group", two Argentinean businessmen visiting Mendoza with time on their hands.
The tour is fascinating, and ends of course at the gift shop, which is attractive, but by North American standards, pretty empty. We buy around a dozen bottles without thinking much on how we are going to carry them all the way back home. After taking photos of the grounds, dominated by the snow-capped mountain ranges, we start our short drive back to Mendoza.
Just outside the Norton farm we notice a stall selling "jamón crudo", literally raw ham. It's not exactly "raw", but somewhat like a rustic version of prosciutto. We stop and enjoy sandwiches and coffee sitting at the roadside. This is the rural version of a sidewalk café.
We are soon back in Mendoza, and I stop off at the bus station to drop everyone prior to returning the car. We now find we have gained an awful lot of luggage, and it takes some time just to get it all organized so it can be stowed properly on the bus.
