Slowing down in Kampheng Phet

  Kampheng Phet, Thailand
Thursday, November 9, 2006

Continuing my tour of Sukhothai-era ruins, I've headed just over an hour southwest to Kampheng Phet. Arrived at the Three Js Guesthouse (not sure what the Three Js are, I'll have to ask) which is a beautiful place with bungalows set in and around a garden. Quite an improvement from the relatively cell-like accomodations of Khao San Road.

I rented a bicycle (yet again) and rode over to the nearby old city. Seems like every town around here is built right next to an ancient town, but this one is practically right on top of it. As a result, the main ruins, while impresively preserved, don't have quite the same mystery as a few other I've seen. However, I rode north from there to the arunyik (forest) temples, which were built by monks as a place for quiet meditation. These were much more secluded and lots of fun to explore on bike and foot. I half expected at times to look up and see a monkey climbing on one of them, but no luck there.

After returning to clean up, I headed out to the night market to find some dinner. A very lively place every night of the week, the night market provided a look at how the Thai people live now, as opposed to seven hundred years ago. Found a good meal of pork in coconut soup. Was served by a girl who must have been about ten years old, but spoke excellent english.

2.2. Pink Hibiscus

The next day, Mr. Charin, the incredibly friendly (even for a Thai) owner of the guesthouse offered to take me to his home in the mountains west of town. I took him up on it and was glad I did. His country home is about 30 km west of town, right on the edge of Khlong Wang Chao National Park. His property there might have more flowers than I've seen in the rest of Thailand over the past five days. Quite a stunning setting, but don't take my word for it, check out the pictures (especially on Flickr).

3.6. Scary!

After a few hours exploring there, he took me to a waterfall in the nearby park. On the way we drove through a hill tribe village, where almost everyone was away at work on local farms. (The Karen people are the largest of several tribes of people living near the border with Myanmar who are refugees from that country's often brutal treatment of them.) We walked through the forest, stopping along the way to pick papaya and eat it straight off the tree. Continuing to push the boundaries of safe health practices, we swam in the waterfall, which was a nice way to cool off. All in all a very nice day and a good change of pace from all the ruins.

Soon after arrival back at the guesthouse, I discovered another traveler who I'd met in Sukhothai was staying here as well. Less than a week in Thailand and I'm already bumping into people I know. Going to stick around here another day, so I may have more to add to this one later on.