Jeju Island

Trip Start Nov 27, 2007
1
Trip End Nov 29, 2007


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Where I stayed
Seongsan minbak

Flag of Korea Rep.  , Jeju Island,
Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Jeju is popular among Korean honeymooners. When I heard it, I imagined it as an island like Hawaii, because Japanese honeymooners often go to Hawaii or Guam. I was not interested in the beautiful beaches, although I prefer mountains or caves. And I found Jeju island was just for me! There are also a few UNESCO's World Natural Heritage sites even in the small island. I had a great time in the island from the begining to end.

On the first day, My mom and I flew to Jeju by way of Pusan. It was possible to take a direct flight from Japan, but the time for departure was in the afternoon and inconvenient for us. Anyway, as soon as we arrived in Jeju, we picked up a few brochures at the TI office in the airport, which was very useful during the travel, and headed for Manjangul Cave, one of the world heritage sites. Actually, we didn't have a guidebook and so we almost passed by the bus terminal where we took a bus for Manjangul Cave Seongsan Iltulbong (Sunrise Peak)
Seongsan Iltulbong (Sunrise Peak)
. Manjangul Cave was 4 km away from the closest bus stop. I thought it was convenient to take a taxi or to rent a car. On our way to the cave, there were some fields surrounded by stone-built wall, which was similar to Okinawan fields in Japan. I had no problem, but my mom looked tired and I thought it was better to take a taxi when we got back. At the ticket office, there was a guide speaking Japanese. He was kind and told us how to get to the next destination, Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak). Anyway we could enter the cave for free, although We didn't know why at that time. There were a lot of lamps along the way in the cave, but still it was dark and the floor was rugged. So my mom couldn't walk and I carried her piggyback. Then we procceeded for a while, but suddenly the way was closed by a rope. I asked the guard standing there the reason, but she didn't speak English. But that's why we could enter the cave for free. We were very disappointed, and headed back for the entrace. Near the entrace, there were a few parked taxis. So we asked them to take us to the bus stop. They didn't speak English, but they looked waiting for other passsengers. Eventually, We gave up and decided to walk back to the bus stop. While we were waiting for a bus to Ilchulbong, it was very cold around there.

In the bus to Seongsan Ilchulbong, we met a native Korean who spoke good Japanese. After I asked the driver to tell us where we should get off the bus, she talked to us in Japanese and got off with us near Ilchulbong Folk Village
Folk Village
. It was kind of her to take us to a minbak, Korean guesthouse, which she knew well. Thanks to her, we were able to stay in a nice minbak with Ondol heating system and free mandarin oranges. After the check-in, we went out for dinner. We knew the island was famous for black pork. So we ate it in a pork BBQ restaurant and it was really delicious, although we spent more than we had expected.

On the next morning, we got up very early to go up to the top of Seongsan Ilchulbong. We were supposed to be at the top before sunrise, but we were not sure what time sun rose. That was why we got up about five and left the minbak. The way to the top was well paved and easy to walk and we arrived there about one and half hour earlier than the sunrise. There were one couple from Korea before us and they greeted us in Korean. Eventually, about 15 people gathered on the edge of Ilchulbong crater. I found a wild rabbit eating grasses over the fence of the crater. It was exciting to see a wild animal. The sunrise view was great, although it was different from the picture I had seen, but it was still excellent. We bought a cup of coffee from a vender and shared it. When we descend, we took a different route from the one on which we climbed. Then, we had got a great view of the cliff on the side of Iluchulbong and Udo Island.

On the way back to the foot of Ilchulbong, we bought breakfast at the convenience store and ate it in the minbak Jeongbang Waterfall
Jeongbang Waterfall
. Then, because the landlord came to our room, we paid, but the rate was quite cheap for a double bed room. After check-out, we asked a taxi driver to take us to Sangumbri Crater, but it was still too early in the morning, the taxi driver offered us a ride to a folk village. Actually, we were supposed to stop by there from the begining, if we had time. So it was lucky. With a free guide, we walked around the village to see a three bar gate with three meanings, black pig, traditional houses, and a statue of a maiden. They recommended something to drink for a souvenir, but we were not interested.

At the gate of Sangumbri, there were two Tolharubang guardian dieties guarding the island. Sangumbri was beautiful with sea of silver grasses, although it was different from the picture I had seen. In the center, there was a hill to overlook the crater. Some part was a private land and prohibited to enter. At the foot of the mound, a photo exhibition was open to public. There were a few pictures of which we had planned to visit and they inspired us. From there, we headed for Jeongbang Waterfall in Seogwipo by way of Pyoseon. Passing by a convenience store, we were talked by a shopkeeper in perfect Japanese. There seemed to be a lot of Japanese-speaking Koreans living in Jeju.

We got off the bus at the crossing of Seogwipo and asked a group of local high shool boys, because young people or students speak better English in general Cheonjeyeon Waterfall
Cheonjeyeon Waterfall
. Unfortuanately they didn't know the waterfall, but it didn't take us long time to get there. Jeongbang waterfall is famous as an only one waterfall falling into the sea in Asia. After we ate noodles for lunch, we walked down the cliff to see the waterfall. We took a few pictures at the popular photo spot and then went back. There was a tourist information office in front on the cliff, where we asked the way to Jungmun Resort. The office worker didn't speak good English, although we barely understood what she told us. Eventually, we walked 15 mins up to KAL hotel to catch a bus, but when I talked to the bus driver, I found my pronunciation of "Jungmun" was incorrect. Anyway, we headed for another waterfall, Cheonjaeyeon Waterfall in Jungmun.

We were not sure again where we should get off the bus, but the place where we got was close to the waterfall. Paying the entrace fee, we met a Japanese tour group. So we overheard the guide explanation on Seon-nyeo Bridge with some figures of goddesses. We could have gone farther, but because my mom looked very tired, we decided to leave there. When we were walking for Jusangjeollidae, a taxi stopped by us. The driver offered to hire him for the rest of the day for a cheap rate. Although we were not so interested in other attractions anymore, thinking of my mom, I chose to hire the taxi. Against our will, the taxi driver were hilarious and eager to take us to a lot of places Horseback Ride
Horseback Ride
.

The first destination to visit by taxi was a horse riding farm near Mt. Halln. Actually, I had never experienced horse riding before and not known I could do in Jeju. As I was just a beginner, a cowboy towed the horse on which I rode. It was not so fun itself, but the view on the route was good. The taxi driver took us to a boat cruise next, but because we were not interested, we headed for Sanbangsan. We climbed a long steps at the next of entrance. It was hard especially for my mom. When we almost reached the top, we heard reading of the sutras and expected something special. However, there was only a very small cave called Sanbang-gul with a Buddha and a stereosystem for the sutra. We were disappointed at the fake, although the view from there was beautiful.

Then we tried to finish all for the day and asked the driver to take us to Jeju City where we would stay for the night. In the taxi, I remembered another famous attraction, which was located near the city and asked him to stop by the Dragon Head Rock. The rock was crowded with a lot of tourists even in the evening. We just had him take a picture of us and got back into the taxi. Actually, we had not reserved a hotel yet at that time and so I asked the driver to take us to a minbak or hotel near the airport. He was happy to take us to his well-known hotel. In the hotel, the hotelkeeper spoke very good Japanese and gave us some mandarin oranges again. Our room was spacious with two beds and Ondol heating system and, although the rate was twice as high as that of the minbak we had stayed near Ilchulbong, we were satisfied with the hotel. However even though it was the last night to stay in Jeju, we couldn't find a nice restaurant around the hotel and finally bought food at a convenience store. That was a pity.
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