Where the streets have no streets - Caleta Tortel

After the Cerro Castillo park, we made our way (via bus this time) to the little town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo. It was muy tranquilo alright. This town reminded both Michelle and I of the town in Northern Exposure. It had about 4 streets and a little radio station and a waterfront. Food was ridiculously expensive and you knew if the butcher had meat that day by whether the red flag was out up front of this white house. Inside was a side of beef hanging and a saw...

the town

We stayed here for two days, including a trip to see the marmol caves, so named because they look like marble. They are beautiful formations of arcways over the glacial blue lake water. It was worth staying an extra day because our hospedaje had two key features: (1) it was a bakery in front, with fresh bread and amazing carrot cakes and empanadas fresh each day and (2) the backyard, where we camped was filled with plum and apple trees, heavy with ripe and delicious fruit at this time of year. We were in heaven.

wooden walkways

We left there on our way to Caleta Tortel, which is known because it has no streets, only wooden walkways that link the houses. The town is built on a bay on a lagoon in the midst of many lakes and fjords that eventually --like a 12 hour sail, lead to the Atlantic ocean. The land is so marshy that they built the town on wooden platforms and these sidewalks and stairs. Its beautiful and a bit of a strange and isolated place. We arrived late, getting a ride (which we paid mightily for) with a man and his wife who live there but who had gone to the nearest large town for groceries. We sat in the back with their groceries for 3 hours, at which point we arrived and the driver left us in the parking lot for the town. We put on our headlamps and back packs and began walking. It was profoundly dark, no stars no moon. At first we thought, oh, they must not have electricity here...which made it quite difficult for us to navigate the stairs, which were also slippery with the rain. We arrive at the hospedaje which has been recommended to us and at the door we are greeted by a small woman holding a candle, which creates even a more eerie aspect to the situation. She shows us to our rooms and after a few minutes the lights go on. Apparently  this was just a power outage, they do have lights after all.

the lake and walkway

just a part of the sidewalk

the trail to the top of the viewpoint

walkway to nowhere