La Vien Rose....Paris!
Trip Start
Oct 18, 2006
1
14
93
Trip End
Oct 19, 2007
Paris,
France
Saturday, February 3, 2007
Departing early on a Saturday morning, l took the TGV (the slowest high speed train l have ever been on!) to Paris from Switzerland. It took only four hours for me to reach one of the most famous cities in the world. I arrived and joined two of my aupair friends from Canada, Mel and Janette. All being highly organized when it comes to our travels, we had a list about as long as Santa's of what we wanted to see in two days. So we soon deciphered the Paris metro system and decided that we would walk everywhere on the Saturday and then catch the metro on the Sunday (you can buy a day pass and share it between people to save money)
01- Antique bookshop on street we were staying
. So we set of to Montmarte...the famous artist and bohemian area of Paris (think the movie Moulin Rouge) where our hostel was situated.. We checked in and climbed the longest spiral staircase l have ever seen to our room (7 stories up!). But the climb was worth it, we had two small windows in our triple room overlooking Paris! It was lovely to look out at the lights below as l fell asleep that night. We dumped our bags into the luggage storage and set out to explore Paris.Our first stop and one of my favorites was the famous white domed cathedral: Sacre Cour. Set on top of Montmarte hill, we climbed the succession of endless stairs only to reach the Cathedral and climb up its beautiful dome. We had heard the view from the top was one of the best in Paris, and it did not disappoint. It seemed as though the city never ended, it stretched as far as the eye could see past the horizon and smack bang in the middle of it was the one thing we had all wanted to see...the Eiffel Tower. We soaked in the view and the sun on top of the dome, whilst helping a man afraid of heights who would not remove himself from the top....will never forget how frightened he was! We then sat on the famous stairs below the cathedral, overlooking Montmarte and listening to the buskers surrounding us. I loved that moment!
We then walked, stopping to buy french pastries, to the Opera Garnier. This spectacular opera house was the inspiration for the setting of The Phantom of the Opera...as there is actually a river running under neath it and the stairway is the same as the one in which features in the famous musical. We didn't make it inside the Opera house only into the foyer but that was spectacular enough as it was...if l ever return l would love to see an Opera there the acoustics are would famed
02- Steps up to Sacre Cour...lots and lots of them
. Walking across from the Opera house we walked passed and starred into the windows of the very famous Parisian cafe- Cafe de la Paix which was designed by the same man who designed the Opera Garnier. Walking down the famous Madeline street beside the cafe, we walked past numerous famous boutiques until we reached the beginning of the most famous street in Paris- the Champs Elysees. This is where you will see the classic images of Paris, woman in fur coats and heels walking their manicured poodles, men shopping with their wives and coming out of Louis Vitton with more bags then they can carry and of course people sitting outside cafes with their cafe au laits watching the other people watching them. It was all very surreal. Beginning the walk up the Champs you are greeted with a tree lined promenade within which the Arc de Triumph beckons you at the end. It doesn't look that long but the walk took us over 30 minutes, and we soon realized just how big the arc was as we got closer and closer. We probably also took awhile as we couldn't help but window shop at Cartier, Louis Vitton and Channel....who all began in Paris. We also visited the Mazda car showroom which was showing the cars of the future....boy, am l looking forward to the future!
We finally reached the beautiful arc and walked underneath its beautifully carved ceiling adorned with rosettes. We started getting stiff necks from looking up at the beautiful carvings depicting the history of France, so we decided to look down for a while and contemplate life by the tomb of the unknown solider. We then walked back down the Champs quickly to try and catch the sunsetting as we walked across Paris most beautiful bridge- Pont Alexendre III. We made it just in time, as we raced past the two beautiful Palais that greet you as you enter the bridge we stopped still as we saw the sunsetting over the river Seine and behind the Eiffel Tower
02.1- Janette and Moi climbing the steps
. It was a beautiful moment...l think we even had a moment of silence in which we all gasped at the site. After taking too many photos we decided it was time to eat and we went in pursuit of a cheap cafe as we walked past the glistening golden dome of the Invalides where Napoleon is buried. We then got a little lost, we were trying to make our way to the Eiffel Tower but soon lost sight of it behind the tall apartment buildings. After deciding we would just try and follow the general direction we thought it was in, we turned a corner and suddenly it loomed all illuminated in the night sky directly in front of us. It was another moment in which we all gasped, it was such a beautiful sight and we had no idea just how huge the tower was until that moment. We had wanted to climb up to the top, but found out that we were too late, they had closed the staircase. So we decided to do the next best thing, eat sucre crepes and ride the ferries wheel below the Eiffel! We had all decided that we had wanted to see the Eiffel up close at night as it so much for beautiful at night as it is all lite up, compared to its day grey facade. We sat and gazed at one of the most famous images in the world, and then walked through the lovely Point d lena and Trocadero Gardens to get the best views. Not knowing how to get to the metro (Paris is hopeless with tourist signs and info!), we asked one of the souviners men trying to sell us Eiffel tower key rings
03- Sacre Cour
. I pointed us in the direction down the river, we soon realized that he had pointed us in totally the wrong direction as we had not bought a keyring from him. We decided to take the 20 minute walk detour, and ended up enjoying our walk alongside the river seine thanks to him! Janette and Mel had wanted to see and Opera at the opera house, l having just come back from Prague the day before and seeing two operas there decided to go explore the artist district and backstreet's of Montmarte instead. So off l set, walking up the steep Montmarte hills, getting totally lost but loving every minute of it!! This area is definitely my favorite area of Paris. There are gorgeous (and cheap) restaurants everywhere, artists painting Parisian scenes and life and great Jazz and piano bars. Also in this area is the famous Cabaret nightclub the Moulin Rouge (on which the building it contains is easily recognized by its neon lite windmill). But what many people don't realize is that Paris used to be filled with windmills before it was the sprawling city that it is today. I went in pursuit of trying to find one of the last remaining original windmills in Paris called the Moulin de la Galette. I finally found it (after 20 minute climb up a hill), nestled into the hill and surrounded by ivory totally conspicuous to the world and city around it. Thank goodness l had gone to this windmill as it led me to my now favorite street in Paris. This street is where the artist market is by day, and where at night the boutiques are open with men painting in their windows, the sound of jazz piano of wine glasses clinking fill the air and you begin to feel the bohemian past this part of city was once famed for. Walking through this street, l got talking to a couple of the artists who were living out one of my dreams of living and painting in Paris. Is was fascinating to hear there own stories and have them explain how this city has inspired them in so many ways
04- Sacre Cour Last Supper paneling
. Its amazing how a city can be just so much more than a bunch of concrete buildings.....Paris is no concrete jungle, it has a story, a image of beauty and history around ever turn waiting to be explored. It fascinated me....and was already capturing my heart. I walked back down a million stairs and past the Sacre Cour all beautifully lite up a night, and up the 7 flights of tiny wooden stairs and rested my head on my pillow and dreamed of being an artist in Paris.
The nest day was probably the busiest sightseeing day l have ever had. It was the first Sunday of the month, which means in Paris all the must see sights and museums are FREE!! This day saved us a fortune and we crammed as many sights we wanted to see as possible in 24 hours (hence the need for the metro card today). So we walked to the metro station (which we seemed to spend half our day at) and caught the metro to the nearest stop to the Louvre. We set out early in order to try and beat the crowds at opening time, and walked through the beautiful Jardin des Tuilleries which was deserted in the early morning light which led us to the Louvre and yet another arc greeted us (Paris has more than one!). I had no idea that the Louvre was sooo big and beautiful. We had arrived just in time (half an hour before opening) to beat the ques and we soon entered the Louvre through its famed glass pyramid...which l personally like but understand why many don't...it really is a little out of place in the old Palais courtyard. We had allowed ourselves two hours in Louvre so we started the race against the clock. Janette and l are huge art lovers, however poor Mel is not and doesn't really like Museums so today was not the best day for her! Me and Janette we so excited to be visiting one of the most famous art galleries in the world
05- Door knocker at Sacre Cour
. We set off right away to go view the Mona Lisa (before the crowds) and l stood in front of this world famous painting and thought what was all the fuss about? I have never and will never be a fan of this art work....ok so her eyes do mysteriously follow you around the room (l tested this and it worked), but her hands are way out proportion, its all painted in the most subdued and melancholy tones and l find it rather boring. Janette agreed and we soon moved on to our list of must sees in the Louvre. These included the very beautiful Venus de Milo, the lace makers, the Slaves by Michaelangelo (amazing!!! cant wait to see David in Florence....this man did the most amazing things with marble), Egyptian antiquities which the Louvre is famous for (which l tried explaining the meaning behind to Jannette who was visiting Egypt the following week), Italian and of course dutch paintings (in my view the two best countries in the world for their paintings). We were exgaughsed but somehow we had managed to view everything we had wanted to see including Napoleon's recreated apartments (a must see....beautifully furnished)....and loved every minute, but we seriously needed some air as the crowds were just getting too big. So we decided to take a walk along the Seine on the left bank...a very Parisian walk on a Sunday. We passed the river side quays of the Latin Quarter which was lined with 2nd hand bookstalls, and old postcards which we spent a few minutes browsing amongst. The reason for this walk though was to reach the Ile (island) de la Cite. Yes that is right, Paris has an island (actually two) right in the middle of the Seine river. On this particular island, you can see and visit in my opinion one of the must sees of Pairs- the Sainte Chappelle. It is a small Chappelle that looks quite ordinary from the outside but once you enter it you are suddenly surrounded by the most beautiful stain glass windows you are ever likely to see
05.1- Janette and Moi climbing up Sacre Cour
. Reflections bounce around you and l was so overcome by this place l had to sit down for a few minutes and just take it all in. We had arrived at the perfect time to view the stain glass (late morning) as the sun was shining all around us and it felt like l was standing in a rainbow. However our hungry stomaches were soon calling us so we decided to walk to the lovely Ille St-Louis, via the Marche aux Fleurs (Flower and Bird market on Ile de la Cite). Our reason for visiting this tiny island in the middle of Paris was to spoil ourselves on the reputed best glace (ice-cream) in Paris- at Bert Hillon. And it did not disappoint with such flavor's as caramel popcorn...who could not resist! It was also a very pretty Ille to walk around on a Sunday afternoon with lovely Boutiques and people sitting in the winter sun on the outside terraces with their cafes.
We soon however, headed back to the Ile de la Cite to visit the famous Notre Dame Cathedral. We avoided the over 2 hour line to climb the towers, and entered the church for free also avoiding mass hours. The church was very nice and quite grand with lovely lighting, but too be honest lam a little churched out! So we soon departed and admired the outside of the Cathedral with its famous gargoyle's surrounding its towers.
We then made our way to the Pantheon, which too be honest l didn't know very much about, but we went because it was free and only one metro stop away. It was a very impressive building inside and out with a crypt full of famous people. And l also found it interesting that it was here that the center of gravity was founded.
But one of the highlights for the day and for my whole trip to Paris was our afternoon visit to the amazing Musee d Orsay
06- 1st view of Eiffel tower from Sacre Cour dome
. This huge converted railway station holds some of the most famous and beautiful impressionist paintings in the world. Janette and l are both huge impressionist fans, in particular Monets work, so of course we ran straight up to the upper level where they are housed. Viewing Monets famous bridge, waterlilies amongst other beautiful paintings was just amazing. His beautiful use of blue hues and application of pointillism is simply stunning. When you are viewing one of his paintings you really do feel as though you are standing in it, surrounded by waterlilies, lavender and blueness! The actual Musee itself is worth visiting just for how it has been set up within the old train station. But be warned...it is very cramped on the impressionist floor so where lots of layers and wait your turn patiently...it will be worth it once your standing directly in front of a masterpiece!As you can imagine we were completely exhausted by this stage of the day. We stayed in the Musee for under two hours (until closing time) and were then told to leave by a security guard who looked exactly like Whitney Houston...she even had the Bodyguard hairdo going on! Resting our weary feet, we sat down on the steps outside the Musee and listened to a fabulous piano busker play to the audience surrounding him. He was fantastic playing Blues, ragtime, Jazz...you name it he was playing it...all except for one song that l had been longing to hear my entire time in Paris. Le Vien Rose...the ultimate Parisian song, immortalized by the famous Parisian Chanteuse (singer) herself...Edith Piaf. Iam a fan of the movie Sabrina, which vividly describes how this song is played throughout the streets in Paris for the tourists. So l was expecting to hear it all the time....but was yet to. I was going to ask the busker to play it, but we had to be on our way to our next stop- the very famous and controversial Centre Georges Pompidou
07- Gazing at the Eiffel Tower!
. This is one of the best modern art museums in the world...which l hope to one day be able to view its amazing collection. But our reason for visiting it on this trip was to take the elevator up to Georges Cafe which is rumored to have the best sunset views of all of Paris. We just missed sunset, but my goodness lam so glad we went! Paris all of a sudden right in front of our eyes became the Paris of my dreams, the Paris of Hollywood. All of Paris was twinkling below us, to our right the Sacre Cour was brightly illuminated on Montemarte hill, the Arch de Triumph and Champs twinkled alluringly and all of a sudden the Eiffel Tower began to sparkle! Janette and l just sat still and starred at one of the most beautiful sights l have ever seen! All of a sudden l understood why this is the city of love and beauty, it is a moment l hope l will never forget! Also whilst we were up there, we viewed an amazing sound and light display on the square below us. A series of video images would be projected on the square and then in sequence to the music, would come towards you in a 3D like effect. Janette and l were mesmerized by some of the images like a baby swimming in water towards you an amazing setting sun and lots more. It was the perfect end to our Musee and art day! Also seeing the Pompidou all light up at night with its famous inside-out exterior showing off (a series of tunnels run alongside the outside of the building) was fun, and walking through the actual tunnels on the outside of the building was even more fun!
But by this stage it was around 8.30 and we were all starving and in need of some comfortable chairs! I decided to take Janette and Mel to the area of Montmarte l had explored the previous night by myself.
08- View of Montmarte and Paris from dome of SC
We firstly had to bypass the famous Moulin Rouge Cabaret and do a little can can (the dance was made famous here) outside it neon windmill. Janette and Mel were somewhat unhappy with me at first for dragging them up the steep streets of Montmarte in search of a tiny street l loved and old windmill. But once they got there, they thanked me and also fell in love with the place. We decided to have a cheap 5 Euro meal in one of the pizzeria piano bars l had been eyeing the night before. We feasted on wine and a beautiful three course meal in the tiny rooftop terrace of the piano bar...listening to famous songs we all knew and loved. Just as the clock was about to strike midnight and pianist started playing a song a man had requested in the restaurant....finally l began to hear the melody l had been longing to hear all weekend. I sat back and listened with a smile on my face as he played the beautiful La Vien Rose.... the clock struck midnight...and l turned 23 in Paris!
