Treking is bloody hard work!
Trip Start
Sep 30, 2005
1
13
82
Trip End
Sep 01, 2006
McLeod Ganj,
India
Monday, October 24, 2005
anyway day 1, packed up, and headed to the treking place in bright spirits, and generally a good mood. before we left, we aquired some nice hippies fleeses, gloves, and big bright socks, and all proved to be particurly useful. we traveled with a porter (food) and two guides (making it all look like a peace (thats for you linda, keep smiling) of cake). we also had a newly wed couple, carl (ireland), mariana (spell? portugal) with us for the long walk
1. The View From Base Camp
. we left most of our stuff at the place, with just a small rucksack, a sleeping bag, and ground mat, traveling light. 5 mins in the walk, kate is breathing hard, and can't get her breath (recently had the flu, and also a big wimp), in steps the very manly danny, who carried her bag from the bottom (day 1), to the cave (end of day 2). to say kate found it tough is a very big understatement, and kate says its the hardest thing she has ever done, and said when she reached the top, she had nothing left to give. whithin half an hour, me and kate dropped behind the other two, me behind kate, being kind, nasty, singing, and generally making any sort of noise to encorage her to keep going. 'slowley slowley'. this was the theme for us for three days.
the views on the way up, was amazing, and seeing the Indrahar pass so far in the distance, really putting doubt into our mind. we would pass other trekers, occasional coffee shops, as few tiny shrines. the path winding it way up the mountain, (path no thats not right!), rocks and mud. after two hours we stopped and had chipatti and potatoes, which was lunch every day. also not far from our first destination, we encountered some sheep being sheered, camera opp, sheep poo became another familar theme for the journey
2. Lunch Day 1
. after about 4 hours trecking, we made it to Triund, which is a grassy plateau, with amaazing views in both directions, and alot of people camping. we had small concrete building to set up in, hard and cold. dinner every night was rice and dahl, and as we enjoyed the fire. linda big thanks for the whiskey flask, really helped me though the cold nights. colin your lighter was a big hit in india, but it run out of gas, negating it usefulness temporarily. the first day was 9km, and we walked from about 1500m to 2500m in height.cold cold night, the next day followed a similar pattern to the first, brathtaking views, and hard graft, and gererally a shed load of sweating. we also had three dogs for company from this point onwards, 1 very proud sheperds dog, and two very skanky strays. it got much colder, and cloud and fog came in, and visibility dropped. we made our way into the valley bed below the pass, and encountered a glacier (melting before winter hits).it was not long before we found our cosy little cave (waist height). the fire was a life safer, and the sun set undescribable, as the weather cleared. the guides let slip some horror stories, and mentioned snow leopords, which excited kate and no one else. the sky a night is a new wonder, and the milky way was smiling at us, the cave felt cosy, and sleep come easy. that was untill the fire went out, and the breeze keep making you shake, even with every bit of clothing that we had brought on
3. sheep shearing
. then somewhere in the middle of the night, the growling started, i know that at that point all of us thought there was a snow leopard in the cave, and the dogs were about to do battle. i think even before our guides shouted at the dogs to shut up, we must have known, but it was too late, the damp patches had been created.i think, baring kate, we had all managed up to this point 3200m, and another 7 km resonable well. the next morning we awoke at six to avoid the sun, but had no idea what lay ahead, leaving most of our stuff with the porter at the cave. the 4 hour trek to the top, was much steeper that anything than we had previously encontered, and involved alot of scrambling, and breathing was hard, due to there being 50% less oxygen at the top. i have no idea how kate made it, weeping a little, and sometimes being phisically pulled by me or the guides. we all started to feel the altitude, light headeness, and general pains. we made it to 4200 and the pass. it certainly felt like quite an achievment, as we looked across the himalayas, and celerbarted with chocolate, penuts and boiled eggs, kate curled in a ball. the way down is easy, was what we were all thinking, but because of the steepness, it has a massive impact on your knees, and feet, and still took two hours, i know we were all feeling really sick from the altitude, and really tired, and me and kate had several minor falls
4. The View from Truin
. we arrived back at the cave, collapsed, took pain killers, i couldn't eat, and generally moaned alot, especially since we knew there was three more hours down the moutain very shortly, i think we all thought that we wouldn't make it. surprisingly after a rest, the rest of the journey down was easier (not easy), and we made it back to Triund after nightfall, to fire and food, but glad for a warmer night, and a clear day to have enjoyed (through gritted teeth) the views. i think then feeling better, and the sense of achievment, in hindsight we were glad we had done it.the forth day down, was resonably easy by comparison, by 3 days of treking really starts to takes it toll on the muscles, bones, and kates purple nose. we got back, said some good goodbyes, and looked forward to checking back into our hotel, little did we know as we saw the dala lama drive past waving, that there was a big event on, and loads of place (including our hotel), were closed. we trasped miserably about with all our stuff, untill lucking out, with maybe our best find hotel of the trip (resonably priced), clean rooms, and a wonderful, wonderful, wonderful shower with hot water! we rejoiced, or creeked around the room.
last night, we had nice food, strong beer, met a guy called jamie from brighton, who is gonna come along with us to manali, and had a good time with some young indians (wealthy punjabs), who thought my hair was way cool, and just had to talk to me, caus i looked like david beckham
5. sun rise
. i think kate and jamie really enjoyed this. either way, a good time was had, so much so we forgot the time, and got locked out of our building, well almost, the gate closed, but the owner heard our panic, and let us in. horah.today reflecting on our adventure, still in allot of pain, we have just been relaxing and eating, and took a small walk to the waterfall which were very peaceful, some problem with the camera and a virus, but the pictures should be updated very soon, watch this space.
p.s. mums both, we keep calling, and if your not there, we thinks its caus you don't love us, will call soon. dad tell nan mills i hope she gets better, and i'm thinking of her always.
Comments
Yes trekking is hard work
Hi danny and kate, am really really impressed that you endeavoured a moderate / hard walk UP the Hymalayas and yes I am sure the views were completely fantastic and the rewards for success HIGH but can imagine a little how you might have felt . Kate, the last 2 times I have been trekking ie in Morocco and in Thailand I felt as you sounded I cant go another step and it is all too hard and I want to stop and Laura had to work very hard to accompany me and make me do it. I always felt so pleased at the end for overcoming it but felt it was a big price to pay. But you have all my empathy and incredible feeling of how bloody fantastic that you did do it in the end despite all the challenge,. Afterwards I did find when the muscles settled that I was fitter but then never followed it up with another similar exertion. Not suggesting you should though. Anyway if it is any consolation maybe it is genetic !!
The trek in itself sounde really amazing and sleeping in a cave with snow leapards around , or at least dogs a questionable sort of Fab
Anyway I hope you are both enjoying the peace and rest of your new hotel, how challenging it must have been to come down and find no room at the inn..... I be you have slept well since. Looking forward to seeing the photos.
Meanwhile the weather is turning here and rain has pelted down all day and the heating is on ....it is the beginning of the end when that heating goes on. Had a good weekend the films we saw yesterday were good but not worth coming back to London to se them. Also kate have a confession our video has stopped playing tapes in a straight forward way, it plays a bit, then jumps to fast forward and squeaks and then back to ordinary, Tried cleaning the heads but no good, So have borrowed yours from the Attic, will replace back in a few weeks when we decide what to do on the equipment front, A new what is the question ?
Sorry to have not been answering the phone if you call , will be great when finally we connect. And can hardly say it is because we have a madly social life ,,,so do keep trying
anyway take good care of yourselves and rest up good
lots of love mum aka marie
What an amazing account of your trek!
Hi Kate, hi Danny, Danny I applaud your account of the trek, it is gripping stuff, I could imagine it all as I read your words. Forget ESL you'd better take some creative writing courses too, I'm already thinking Lonely Planet etc, I mean it, it's good stuff. You never know, you might be able to write a book together, entitled something like Travelling East on a Wing and a Prayer???!!!
Kate, I hope you feel you've passed this fitness test, I know many of us dread the altitudes - a group of us are going to the Snowy Mountains next March and a few who were interested have said no because of the altitude - particularly hard if you have breathing problems or smoke.
But good on you both for keeping on, keeping on. Whoever said travelling was easy? There does seem to be all kinds of tests re endurance, patience, tolerence etc etc but so far you are showing you are made of sterner stuff.
Meg and I went on a National Park walk on Saturday, on an old bullock road that still has near the end of the walk, two troughs with the year 1892 etched out of the stone on each of them, (that's old as far as white Australian history goes). Green Corps or some other similar group must have been in there since last we did the walk last year, I noted all sorts of improvements, even a seat near the troughs and other things too.
I put a layby on a new bike that I hope to get out for Xmas, so when you do eventually arrive here you can keep your fitness up as we have a good supply of bikes, initially thanks to Marie and Laura. Do you imagine you could give cycling a go on a cycle path Danny? Not at all like Cambridge.
I went out on Daniela's bike yesterday and I have to choose whether it's south on the cycle path and staying on level ground, or north and up and down the hill a few times, you two would probably knock the hill over quickly, my challenge is to do it and keep my breathing from scaring the kiddies.
Melbourne Cup fever has taken us over here, I'm organising a sweep ($10) a go and that means each person gets a horse name for their money and there are 26 horses in the race. Everything comes to a halt everywhere in Australia during the race, except for the activities at the Melbourne race course. We're going to have lunch, a group of us, at a Returned Soldiers Club in Paddington (better known as Paddo RSL) and as the race is just after 3pm, we move from the Bistro to the lounge area and watch the race on a huge screen. I can't remember if you've been around for the Melbourne Cup Kate - have you? Anyway, winning horse person gets $200, second place $40, third place $20.
Meg's job is at the stage where it seems to be almost a full time job but she's getting a lot out of it and is obviously making a good contribution. Because I have Daniela's 4WD till Xmas Eve, I don't yet feel inconvenienced when she drives away in our car but even after Xmas, I feel quite okay about travelling by public transport, I'd love to think I could aim to cycle to the uni on my bike next year but I think I use it more for exercise than transport at the moment, still I can hope, can't I?
We look forward to the photos of your trek, hope you are now enjoying the wind down and relax phase, much love, Pearlie.
Re: What an amazing account of your trek!
Hi Pearlie (and Meg!) Nice to have such immediate responses to our updates, i'm sure most people are bored by now but I guess they can just skim read and look at the pictures! We are both feeling much better from the trek now and can even manage stairs again now! We are off to Manali this arfternoon on a 10 hour bus ride which will be fun I'm sure.
The walk in the Naional Park looks good and and looking forward to walks and swims in Oz, am wanting to get my fitness up again after wroking in an office. Maybe should cut down on the pancakes too! If there were bikes available for us to use in Oz that would be great and then all three of us can scare the kiddies as we go up hills!
The Melbourne cup sounds fun, what exactly is Meg doing on the stage?! Lets hope you both win lots of dollars.
Willkeep you updated of every small detail we do! and will call again when I find a cheap place. Take care lots of love Kate
Nice Pictures
Hi Danny, its Mark at that place you use to work, got your old job by the way. Anyway John's leaving soon so i thought I ask you something before he goes to Malaysia. We've had hot debating on whether Singapore is a seperate country or part of Malaysia, whats your input. Its been going on for about three weeks now.
Move over Michael Palin
G.day Guys
A great read...and the pix are pretty damn fine as well. By the sound of things Kate will be in peak physical condition in a few weeks so watch out!
A most enjoyable read....keep the accounts coming....Move over Michael Palin.
sorry it's taken so long......!
hey guys! sorry we haven't written yet, but haven't managed to be around a computer with the internet and have Tom here at the same time....! The photos are amazing, sounds fantastic but we're missing you!
Anyway, will write more soon, take care. Steph and Tom
p.s. Kim says bring me back a present. ooh, and that goes for us too!!!!
Himalaya envy
Danny/Kate,
We read your entry and looked at the pics, and we were blown away.....what a trip to do ! we love the idea of such a trip, but somehow I don't think the body would be up to it, even if the heart is !!
WELL DONE KATE for making it, sounds like you found it very tough.
A couple of updates from home:
Mum has a stinking cold....and she has started new medication for the arthritis, which is good news as it slows down progression.
We had dinner on Monday with Lee & Donna, Nan & Grandad at the Italian restaurant in St Neots...we toasted the 2 of you..so all thinking of you.
Nan Mills has moved down to Portland Bill near Weymouth for good, she has moved in with your cousin Jason & Tina (I will tell you more later, it's a long story).
Your other cousin Perry was burgled over the weekend and had his throat cut (yes really)....he is alive but had 128 stitches in his kneck....he was on critical list but is now recovering ok. The police arrested a couple of guys for it.
Your other cousin Alan has just become a Grandad at 27 !! (through marraige rather than blood) he seems pleased which is a bit weird for a 27 year old.
So nothing out of the oridinary.....you have an interesting family !
Keep them coming, we all love to read what you are up to, and we will keep showing Nan & Grandad.
Love, Mum & Dad
ps we got the stuff off Lee and will keep CD with Pics on somewhere safe.
Re: Move over Michael Palin
Hey to you!
Glad you like the updates and you can't say now you don't have any pictures! Am recovered from the hike now and even done a days hike yesterday - am determined to get fitter! Hope you are happy and that work etc is going well. Send me an email soon as I am telling you every detail of my life!
Lots of love Kate
You intrepid explorers!
Oh my god!
That looks so amazing! It must have been such hard work. Kate, you've come a long way from passing out in the shower in Suez Road! I don't know how you managed it - I'd have been gibbering on the floor after the first day.
We're on half term at the moment although that doesn't seem that great considering you guys are on permanent summer holidays. However, we just brought a flat in North Finchley if ever you do return to drab old dreary london you'll have somewhere to rest your noggins that isn't covered in sheep poo.
So proud of you both and really enjoying your blogs,
Emzy xxxxxxxx
Re: You intrepid explorers!
Hey there matey,
Wow to the house in Finchley - very posh! Have you bought it are you morgaged then? Summer holiday's must be great what are you gonna do with your six weeks apart from not get covered in glitter and goup every day?! Also no alarm or tube journey - brill!
I miss you and Colin and was teary the other day when looked at the party pics, that was a cool night!
Take care Ms Oxley love ya xx