Epic Surf and the House

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  Crescent Heads, Australia
Wednesday, October 11, 2006

On our 2nd last day in Byron Bay we were lucky enough to surf some of the nicest waves I have ever seen. Not huge by any means, but fair sized perfection, glassy and smooth...Jeff, Dylan, Ciaran, and myself stayed out for hours and I surfed for an extra hour after it went dark...night surfing at Wategos. Some epic rides were had. Like Bodhisattvha in Point Break.
We soon left Byron Bay...we had spent heaps of time there and we all felt it was time to leave. A great decision because we found ourselves staying the night in the quiet port/fisherman town of Coffs Harbour, eating at a fancy Italian restaurant, sleeping in a fancy hostel, and surfing fantastic waves the next day at Diggers Beach with the Australian National Rugby Team (the Wallabies). More epic rides were had... and the surf was pretty good in terms of size. After the surfing we stopped in at the Legends Surf museum which was some old guy's house out in the middle of the country. What we didn't know was that the old guy was a legend himself. Born in 1929 he pretty well made surfing in Australia...he surfed with Greg Knoll at Waimea, surfed with Nat Young, and the guy who invented Billabong used to work for him. It was just me, Jeff and Dylan there so the old guy told us stories for hours...story after story about great rides in unimaginable places and about shark attacks and the run in he had with a giant tiger shark in 1949 that left half his body scraped and bloody. His name is Scott Dillon...a surfing legend and a beauty that loves to swear and also loves young Canadian girls.
We continued on down the highway, stopping at Scotts Head, a place not even on our map, but recommended to us by the surf legend. A beautiful little seaside village with a big green headland...the motel was full so we travelled on.
We ended up in paradise at Crescent Heads. Population 1200. We went to the Mediterranean Motel (400 m from the beach) and the owner Mick gave us a house for a few nights! A full on house with 3 bedrooms, a living room , kitchen, front yard...etc for $40 each per night. Unreal! So we got pretty excited. And a short walk down the road is one of the best waves in Australia. Of which we are on our way to in approximately 20 minutes.

P.S. After our near shark attack experience we looked up Flat Rock and Lennox Head on the Internet to find some very gruesome things: a swimmer getting eaten, a person's hand and wristwatch found in the belly of a Bull shark, a kayaker jolted out of his kayak, and a poor surfer knocked 2 metres in the air after a great white takes a chunk out of his board. What the hell were we doing surfing there?

Man its good to be alive.

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