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Trip Start May 25, 2003

Trip End Aug 21, 2003

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Flag of India Almora, India
Monday, June 2, 2003

Against all odds, we were able to book, board and endure our train ride from Delhi to Nainital with little incident - save for Heather's unscheduled proctology exam in the train station. The place was a zoo - midnight, wall-to-wall travelers (ours the only white faces to be seen) - and before we knew it, a young man welcomed her to India in his own inimitable style. GOOSE! We met a very nice Indian couple on the train - they were en route to see their guru, and were kind enough to help us navigate our way into a shared taxi the next morning. The antiquated jeep, packe with Indian travelers headed for the hills, careened through the foothills and popped a tire en route to the lakeside "resort" - but we arrived intact, found a hovel, I mean hotel, and headed out to explore. We rowed a boat on the lake (Mike at the helm, much to the chagrin of the boatman who, left ashore, figured he might as well row his own boat), and H enjoyed the adoring attention of the paparazzi. Several young men actually boarded our vessel to pose for pictures with her, and only left after we threatened to mutiny

Big loads

. Once we made land, another guy approached us, politely asked to have a picture with us, and proceeded to orchestrate a Feliniesque scene in which he was apparently having a casual conversation, captured "spontaneously" on film. I have a feeling it might be on his homepage soon! We decided that one night in Nainital would be enough, and were excited to see what Rhaniket, reputedly a smaller, less engulfed-by-Indian tourists town several hours away, might hold. Based on the public bus's sardine-can appearance (and the conspicuous stains running down the sides beneath the windows!), we opted for a taxi. In response to H's inquiry as to our driver's safety record, he flashed a crimson, paan-stained smile and handed her the keys. Happily, we enjoyed a tranquil ride to Rhaniket, w/ H in the back seat using Mike's leg for an oh shit bar and grooving to Hindi pop. Rhaniket was exactly what we had been looking for - shanty village without all the traffic and stench. Sadly, it was shortly after lunch that H succumbed to what would be, in her words, The Plague. It hit hard and fast, first in feverish aches, then in prodigious perspiration, and finally, a gastrointestinal battle the rages on, though slightly attenuated, even as we write. Three days bed-bound and H was back on her feet, if a bit wobbly and light-headed. She has officially sworn off Indian food and now, ironically in light of her habitually healthy diet, nourishes herself on chocolate and Lay's potato chips - all hermetically sealed from any potential parasitic invaders

Breakfast of Champions

. We sit now in Almora, the home-base for treks to the Pindari glacier, famed for its panoramic views of Nanda Devi and other surrounding Himalayan peaks. Unfortunately, smoke from fires in the valleys (euphemism for pollution) has obscured our views up to now. We're hoping for a reprieve, despite a local's friendly suggestion that we should return in January during the 3-4 days when you can actually see the mountains from here! Mike remains strong, sure that the sweet chai he drinks from street vendors will protect him from the dread Delhi belly. It should be said that neither of the dynamic duo has managed to eat more than a meal (or a bag of chips) a da We have found that cutting out carbs, fats AND proteins is a remarkably effective weight-loss regimen...Atkins, eat your heart out! We will arrange a trek in the next couple days, once H has got her strength back, and update again upon our return. Thanks so much for all the emails - though we can't respond individually d/t slow internet speed and unreliable electricity (which has also impeded our plans to send lots of pix) - we love hearing from all of you.