Amdo Horse Racing and the Dark Lake
Trip Start
Jul 29, 2008
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Trip End
Sep 01, 2009
Lake Namtso, Xizang, China
Friday, August 7, 2009
Kevin had carry out some careful negotiations with the Chinese police to allow us to photograph the event, although we only had thirty minutes before the big boss arrived. The Americans were seen cursing and blinding the Chinese police as we walked back to the truck, but the rest of us felt very privileged to be able witness this once in a year event. Cultural sensitivity anyone?
The long day ended with a climb over a 5200 metre pass and a descent down to Lake Namtso
Amdo Main street
. This site is one of the most sacred places in Tibet and is the highest saltwater lake in the world. We even had double rainbows accompanying us down the hill. Tibetans see this as a very good omen and we were blessed with perfect weather. This weather would accompany us throughout our time in Tibet.
As usual the bleaters complained about arriving late and not having enough time. Did they forget that we were late because we had stopped at the races? Attention spans of a gnat?
Anyone could return to the lake if they wished during the time we had allocated in Lhasa, but it seemed to be more fun to abuse the crew, guide and local restaurant staff. I was just glad of the opportunity of a warm bed and hot food. This was our first night at over 4700 metres and it was tough breathing.
We stayed the night in the awful tourist Chinese camp, although the rooms were clean and dry. The sanitary conditions were unbelievable. How we escaped without serious problems is beyond me.
Typical Amdo Truck Park.
The normal people awoke early and attempted to climb the nearby Tashi Dor religious mountain. It is hard to describe how this place felt apart from the obvious "very spiritual". Early pilgrims could be seen starting their days walk around the sacred lake; they do this upwards of twenty times.
Trying to climb even this small mountain was a herculean task. We had to stop every ten steps or so and try and breathe. It was worth it. The photos tell all.
Climbing back over the pass we stopped at the security barrier at the entrance, and were just amazed. There were over 40 buses queued up to enter the lake area and we had managed by good luck or good fortune to miss them all. Lhasa beckoned only 80 kms away.
