4.00pm and get off the streets

  Tehran, Iran
Thursday, June 18, 2009

16/06/09 Tues (Tehran)

We had been unable to secure a Letter of Invitation to enable us to get a Visa for Turkmenistan. Sadly, it meant we were going to have to say goodbye to 'Kristina' and crew tomorrow and meet up with them again in Uzbekistan in about a week.

It also meant we'd be arriving in Uzbekistan earlier than anticipated and we would need a Visa extension. So, we were up and off on a long winded taxi trip to the Uzbekistan Consulate via the Embassy (which doesn’t issue Visa’s) and an apartment block.  Lesson learnt – always assume the taxi driver doesn’t know where you’re going and always ensure that you do.  If you can, have someone write the address in Farsi, but don’t bet on the driver being able to read (although you’re bound to find someone who does).  No taxi driver will ever admit to not knowing where you wish to go!

Luckily, we met a wonderful couple who not only helped us find the Consulate, but drove us to the door.  God bless them.  We put our names on the list and sat talking to the smiling guard outside while we waited, our extension was granted free of charge and the smiling guard even arranged for a taxi back to the hotel.  

That was the morning adventure over and we had just enough time before the ritual protest march started to catch a taxi to the National Jewels Museum.  It’s tucked away in the basement of the central branch of Bank Melli and is only open in the afternoon a few days a week (Sat-Tues, 2pm-4pm). 

No cameras or bags allowed and you will be scanned by metal detectors as you enter.  If you lean a little too close to the exhibits or touch the glass barriers, you’ll set off sirens and be promptly told to move away by heavily armed guards.  As soon as you walk in, you can understand why. 

If you thought the Crown Jewels in London were sight to behold, then think again.  There are so many crowns, head pieces, swords, scabbards, necklaces, vases, robes etc literally dripping with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, pearls and gold that you wonder where it all came from.

The Globe (Net Photo)

There’s the Peacock Throne encrusted with almost 27,000 precious stones and a jewelled globe of the world  containing over 52,000 (didn’t see NZ though – shoddy!).  The Sea of Light (Darya-ye Nur) diamond weighs in at a staggering 182 carats and is believed to be the largest uncut diamond in the world.  There are also some relatively recent 20th century creations from the likes of Faberge, all using the vast supply of precious gems still stockpiled in the vault.

The Diamond (net photo)

Glass cases contain tray upon tray of unused stones, both cut and uncut, and all of the highest quality.  There are some beautiful pieces and the exhibit is well worth seeing, if only for its overwhelming extravagance.

Peacock Thone (net photo)

We decided to walk back to our hotel and the streets were already starting to show signs of another protest march.  It was apparent that 4pm was about the time to be heading indoors and staying there. Men stopped their motorcycles and advised us to get off the streets now. We walked faster, much faster.

 The protests continued, peacefully with more than one million Iranians at each event. They all want change and if the world leaves them alone it should happen, although this will not be a quick change. Mike thinks the Mullahs are hanging on by a thread. History will prove him right or wrong.

17/06/09 Wed (Tehran)

We were up early to wave goodbye to 'Kristina’ and crew, before heading off to the local travel agent to collect our tickets for the flight to Tashkent (Uzbekistan) on Friday morning.  It’s just Mike, Glen and me left now.  Sadly for Glen, he and his wife, Chrissy, will be separated for the next week.  Her Letter of Invitation to Turkmenistan was processed, but his wasn’t.  Go figure?  I can understand why ours weren’t – they probably put our passports at the bottom of the pile while they tried to figure out where New Zealand is. 

One final wave and they are gone

After 2hrs, we finally had our tickets after paying an extra US$50 to change "Mike" to "Michael".  We lunched with Glen at a popular vegetarian restaurant set in a park and adjoining a modern art studio, before heading back to the safety of the Atlas Hotel and a change of rooms.  Yay, we now have our very own bathroom and the luxury of a terrace.

Glen joined us for an al fresco dinner on our deck, while we listened to the increasing noise levels in the streets around us.  We’re trying to send e-mails when the internet is accessible, but it’s being tightly controlled, along with the mobile and phone networks.

Although it’s business as usual during the day and we’ve seen no evidence of the violence shown on TV, it’s starting to feel like it’s time to leave.  Another rally is being organised for tomorrow night to commemorate those who have lost their lives during the protest marches. 

It’s our last day in Iran.  We started talking to Steve and Jo over breakfast, a Wellington couple who recently arrived at the hotel – go Kiwi’s!  They’ve been travelling all over the place since selling their business a few years ago and are about to start their Iran tour with Intrepid Travel.  I hope it all goes smoothly for them.

It’s great meeting people from home and we could have chatted all day, but decided to join forces and head off to the National Museum together.  I was looking forward to seeing some of the exhibits on display from Persepolis and wasn’t disappointed. 

There are some great items here, aside from the Persepolis treasures, including fabulous pottery animals and everyone’s freaky favourite .... “Salt Man”!  It’s the 1,700 year old remains of a man found in the salt mines and is remarkably well preserved.  His head, leg and a few belongings are on display.  His head is covered in a mass of white hair, his chin in a full white beard (Santa??) and there’s even a small gold earring visible in his left ear.   It’s macabre, but highly intriguing.

Dehyrated Man

We stopped for pizza, burger, fries and Coke lunch.  Fast food is big business in Iran.

Then we wandered down to the US Den of Espionage (former US Embassy) and you have to love what the Iranians have done with the place!  The USA hatred slogans leave no room for doubt, and although they don’t appear to be newly painted, they’re a constant reminder to the Tehran people.  In one panel, the hand of the USA is depicted with blackened claws, squeezing the life out of the world, wearing a sweat band on the wrist which is patterned with the star of David and the American flag.  Ouch – nasty!

Zionist Imperialists