Al Hoceima, the rugged Mediterranean coast
Trip Start
Sep 03, 2006
1
12
50
Trip End
Aug 15, 2007
Al Hoceima,
Morocco
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
We almost starved there as this resort city proved entirely shut for the winter and Ramadan closed all available restaurants in town. A greasy spoon cafe by the bus terminal saved our ass. And once again, we enjoyed the peace of a non tourist city where touts are a missing species and affable Morrocans the norm.
Yet, the desolate character of the city in low season prompted Mike to give up on his "day at the beach" plans and we left the very next morning for a 6 hours/200 km bus ride through the highest peaks of the Rif range. Yes, you calculated right : an average of 35 km an hour. Mountain road, you see.Magnificent scenery.
A large array of plastic bags accompanied Yasmin through the winding trip. But, yes, she did manage to enjoy the views along the way.
Once again, we were the only tourists in view and the local attraction at all local bus stops.
Another highlight of the day : stopping in Ketama, dusty , dirty village , infamous informal capital of pot growing in Morocco.
As could be expected, Mike's golden mane attracted all the local dealers like flies. The silly tourist who would succumb to their offers is likely to be detained by police at the next road block.
In spite of the officially though repression and countless road blocks, the Rif mountains of Morocco still supply 80 % of France's pot consumption.
Rif people have striking features : tall and hulk, they boast mesmerizing blue or green eyes that contrast sharply with their red brick skin. Some are crowned with fiery red. hair. Historians attribute to the presence of Germain support troops in the roman Legions the prevalence of such features among the local Berber tribes.
