The Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal
Trip Start
Jun 15, 2007
1
16
17
Trip End
Jun 14, 2008
Kathmandu, Nepal
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
We have been busy with visitors, field trips and work the last few months; our excuse for not keeping this site updated. Kate has decided she should be in the running for the title 'number 1 Nepal tour guide' after arranging family itineraries, undertaking two treks and managing the volunteer program for her work.
Showing people around did remind us of some of the positive and enjoyable aspects of living here and why Nepal is such an interesting place to visit - striking temples, vibrant and diverse cultures, interesting politics, great shopping, friendly people, awesome mountains and nature experiences. Our guests also experienced some of the less pleasant aspects though; regular power outages, persistent touts, strikes and blockades, pollution and Kathmandu traffic and the most fun of all, gastro 'issues'
Lower Langtang
. We did try to ensure they had the full Nepali experience!I find it interesting how much people (us included) discuss and relate to the experiences had here by comparing them to experiences and lives in Australia. Maybe we can only understand (or try to) different situations, cultures and experiences by finding a point of relation, however different it may be. Whilst I think we have become more accustomed to many of the differences living here, there is still so much we don't understand and will never be able to. I suspect when we return to Australia we will be comparing things there to life here for a while.
So, unfortunately recent events in Tibet caused the cancellation of our trip a week before we were due to leave and with a bunch of visitors with different ideas of what would constitute an enjoyable holiday we needed to come up with some new plans.
Michael and Anthony decided instead of riding from Tibet they would tackle the back 'roads' of Nepal and travel from Kathmandu to Pokhara while Kate, Susan and Beth headed to the Langtang mountains.
As an aside, the Tibet border remains closed two months later and there are still protests in Kathmandu by monks and nuns who are often brutally attacked and then arrested by police. At the celebration of Buddha's birth, enlightenment and death last week we also saw well over a hundred monks on their 37th day of hunger strike. So whilst changing our plans was a little disruptive we had to remember that people in Tibet were going through a lot and as our travel agent put it; it is a small inconvenience for (hopefully) a greater good
Musical Pasang
. I won't bore you with a descriptive account of trekking in Langtang - this website provides an excellent overview. Overall though it was a fairly easy trek with great forests, spectacular mountains, snow (and snowmen), dazzling displays of rhododendrons, a precarious walk across an icy ledge and the frozen holy lakes of Goisakunda. For anyone looking for a more isolated, less populated (by locals and tourists), nature based trek, I would highly recommend heading to Langtang and Goisakunda lakes.
Michael went mountain bike riding with his brother Anthony (herein referred to as Aff). Although seemingly much less ambitious than riding from Lhasa to Kathmandu, the back way to Pokhara was apparently quite comparable where the number and steepness of the hills certainly made up for the altitude of Tibet. It swayed between pleasant, exhilarating and torturous. Riding up 2000 metres on rocky tracks had its rewards, namely going back down. Although, after a while your arms and blistered hands hurt more than your legs ever did while going up. Anyway, enough overdramatised whinging. We were privileged in getting access to villages and lifestyle that tourists and aid workers don't visit, and enjoying the fascination and surprise from seeing three crazy guys on bicycles. The kids especially would follow us hills, casually walking alongside while we, well me at least, agonised over every pedal. Aff, Kate and I also went canyoning, which basically involves climbing, sliding, jumping and abseiling down waterfalls and gorges. After getting over jumping (falling) five or ten metres into a rock pool after the end of the abseiling rope (intentionally) ran out, we had heaps of fun. Credit goes to Aff for most of the photos
trekking path
. Kate also took on the responsibility of managing the Habitat volunteer program for 11 Australians which involved coordinating every activity and meal, responding to every issue and complaint whilst living and working in the very hot and humid Terai on building two houses. Whilst it was hard work, it was also immensely rewarding and again reminded me of some of wonderful aspects of this country. The community's generosity and acceptance of a bunch of strangers flying into their lives for 10 days was touching. We were adopted into their lives and made part of the home owner families. The conditions were so basic and poor yet the sense of community was so strong. We were entertained by the local wedding band, offered numerous tikkas (blessings) and most rewarding of all, worked together to improve the housing situation of a few families.
During this time Michael went on a two more field trips. One to the far west and the other to the east. The far west is by far the poorest part (of the poorest country in Asia and the fourth poorest in the world!) The thing I really noticed was, no matter what time of the day, most men tended to sit around drinking and playing cards, while the women and children were doing any or a combination of herding animals, carting enormous loads of feed, rocks, wood etc or planting rice
Entering Langtang
. The other women were probably inside cooking daal bhaat for their husbands. Some children were sent to the roadside to sell flowers to passing cars (few and far between), for the equivalent of 5 cents. Many kids aren't going to school for five cents. The east is more populated and far richer than the west. As well as tea, there are many industries and trade with India. In fact it is very very similar to India, some call it a district of India.While in the east I took the chance to head to Janakpur, which is a holy Hindu city, the place of marriage of Rama and Sita (for anyone familiar with the Ramayana). Lots of photos of here are included. The palatial temple was filled and surrounded by pilgrims and Indian tourists. There are hundreds of 'hostels' for the sadhus (holy men) scattered around the town and a re-enactment of the famous Rama and Sita wedding, as well as a few living re-enactments in process.
In amongst entertaining guests, riding and trekking we also witnessed Nepal's historic constituent assembly election. Over 2 months later a second historic event occurred yesterday - the sitting of the Constituent Assembly - 601 members. The first item of business was the formal abolition of the monarchy and the declaration of the country as a federal democratic republic. A few tiny bombs threatened to disrupt the occasion but nothing could stop the movement and celebrations. We were even given a pre-emptive public holiday - republic day - before the declaration was officially made. It has certainly been really interesting to be here for some of the most historic events in Nepal's history.
