Mountain Magic

Trip Start Nov 15, 2004
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Trip End Nov 10, 2005


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Friday, May 13, 2005

What an exhausting 10 days we have spent trekking by the Annapurna ranges from Naya Pul (1025m above sea level) to the pilgrim site of Muktinath (3890m) through some of the most picturesque country in the world. We hired a guide (Raj)and porter (Narayan) in Kathmandu and set out to complete what has been some of the hardest, but equally most rewarding, days of our travels.

We commenced a short drive from Pokhara and climbed almost 1000 metres through terraced hills and valleys to reach a Gurung village where we spent our first night. The next two days were spent climbing through thick forests and gorges. Each night we were lucky enough to enjoy spectacular views of the Annapurna ranges, despite some clouds. The fourth day proved the most challenging as we rose at 4:30am to climb to 3200m for the sunrise over the mountains, but were met with only clouds. We then descended over 2000m into the Kali Gandaki, the deepest valley in the world, with the Annapurnas (over 8000m) on one side and Mt Dauligiri (also over 8000m) on the other Climbing in the clouds
Climbing in the clouds
. The gruelling descent was rewarded with a dip in some hot springs to soothe our aching legs. From then on it was all uphill, travelling up the gorge (and across some hairy suspension bridges) along side an ever changing river.

We almost lost our porter at the end of day five as he had only photocopied ID, and the army checkpost would not let him through. Despite assurances that it was impossible, Raj and Michael walked to the army camp and managed to convince the army chief to let him through. Thankfully we were not left with our 20kg pack (small by Nepali standards where locals carry loads of 60-70kg - strapped to their head!). With snowcapped mountains on each side we made it to the medieval village of Tukuche, where historic Buddhist monuments, narrow streets and the brandy distillery dominate. As we proceeded on, the land became progressively drier, until we reached the desert mountain scenery of Kagbeni. Luckily, Kagbeni is a fascinating town, as we had to spend one extra day resting while Kate got accustomed to the altitude.

Our final destination was another 900m up (to 3800m) at the pilgrim site of Muktinath where we were completely surrounded by snowcapped mountains seemingly within a stones throw away. A magnificent reward for a long climb Heading to Kagbeni
Heading to Kagbeni
. Our final day we walked down to Jomson (2700m) and the next morning, 155km later, embarked on a spectacular plane ride from Jomson back to Pokhara.

The mountain ranges are more beautiful than we could ever describe - hopefully the pictures give you some idea, but really, you will just have to come to Nepal (if you haven't already) to experience them - you can join us when we return and conquer Everest :-)

We are now relaxing by the picturesque lake in Pokhara enjoying what most trekkers then do best - sleeping in, drinking and eating good food, while we contemplate our next destination.
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