Flat as a pancake hot off the griddle

Trip Start Jul 04, 2010
Trip End May 10, 2011

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Where I stayed
Palma Real

Flag of Mexico  , Oaxaca,
Thursday, December 30, 2010

Tehuantepec to Santiago Niltepec, 81 km
38 C/ 100 F 
Trip Alt 129
Avg climb 1%
Max Climb 5%




At 6:20 am, we were out the door dreading a windy day. It was cloudy, cool and so far void of wind. We turned our bike lights on and weaved our way though the village back roads before emerging onto the autopista (main highway). We were happy to discover that the highway has a shoulder and was flat as a pancake. We were knocking out the kms quickly. 

After 27km we were greeted by loads of trash on the side of the road which continued all the way through the town of Juchitan de Zaragoza, or as I renamed it :"the dump". We're used to seeing our share of trash here in Mexico. Scenic view-points are favorite dumping spots, but this town beats them all.
We picked up a few things at the poorly stocked Bodega Aurrora store and stopped for a quick breakfast before continuing on. We were on a roll. Another 16 km clicked by fast and as we approached the town of "La Ventosa", fields of immobile wind-turbines appeared on the horizon as far as the eyes could see, reminding us that luck was on our side.
By 11 am we had covered 50km- that's what flat terrain does for us. By now. blue spots of sky peaked through the cloud cover and it wasn't long before the sun was beating down our necks. Now the brakes were on as we slowed down dramatically due to the heat. Between 1 and 3 pm, we sought refuge in the shade of an overpass.

Just before Niltepec there was a bit of a climb and serious road construction into town which made for a dusty arrival. We lucked out with first hotel we looked at. It was a 100 meters off the main road (enough away from the construction). Hotel Palma Real with air-co, hot shower, spotlessly clean rooms and lovely flower filled courtyard. No wifi. 250 pesos ($20.)

After we showered, we went in search of a bite to eat. Music was blasting from several directions as we approached the town center. Competing wedding parties were celebrating in the streets. Dirt-roads intersected the few paved roads in town. Tacos, tlayudas and tostadas were sold right out of the homes with a few small tables and stools right in the streets. Impromptu neighborhood get-togethers sprouted up like mushrooms. We joined one of these cozy affairs and enjoyed a delicious tlayuda and were encouraged to stay a bit longer by an old guy who had been smiling at us the whole time. 
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Bonnie on

It's been awhile since your last post. Are you safely in Guatemala?

john jones on

It sounds like you had a great time, we are contemplating a similar or comparable trip. I noticed you made no mention of any safty issues (road bandits, unscrupulous police or officials conducts and the likes) which is unlike some reports and blogs I came across somewhere else. Could you shed some light on that.

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