Blown away!

Trip Start Jul 04, 2010
Trip End May 10, 2011

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Where I stayed
Hotel Doneji

Flag of Mexico  , Oaxaca,
Tuesday, December 28, 2010

HW 200, Km Post 354.5 to Tehuantepec. 58 km

Alt Climbed 546 m
Avg Slope 3%
Max Slope 12%

At the crack of dawn, we tackled the last kilometer to the top of the pass, There, an expansive view opened up to us of a turquoise bay with white sand beaches bordered by what looked like a marshy area with abundant bird life. And butting to that was horseshoe of mountains. We arrived at a big speed bump on the road where two young ladies were offering liter cups of cubed fresh fruit to everyone as they slowed to a near standstill to navigate the speed bump. Nobody was buying so we thought we would be nice and buy one. It was so refreshing, we bought two. A few kilometers later we reached the middle of a larger town that spralled along the road. We enjoyed a breakfast of eggs and handmade tortillas at one of the only food shacks that was open that early.

Several hours later, we were at the opposite side of that bay climbing several of those mountains while battling fierce winds. And again, as we got higher, the views of the bay were spectacular. After a cautious ride down the pass, being pushed side-to-side and head-on by the gusty wind, we arrived at the turn-off to the toll road to Tehuantepec, just outside Salina Cruz (which, by the way, we found out is called windy city for good reason.) Still, it was quite early in the day and our AAA map indicated only 15 km more to Tehuantepec. So we decided to bypass Salina Cruz by taking the new toll road to Tehuantepec. 

We used every inch of the width of the shoulder as we struggled against the howling wind towards the toll-booths on. We were afraid that when those guys saw us approach, they would label us a danger on the road and turn us back. But the gods were on our side and the tollbooth guys basically ignored us as we inched past them, zig-zagging like a pair of drunks because of the wind. We were a bit disheartened when we spotted a road sign stating 27 km to Tehuantepec and not the mere 15 shown by AAA. Then, not only did we have the wind to contend with, but also a steady incline and it took us 2 hours to do 10 km. We took a breather out of the sun under an overpass. The next 10 km went a lot faster. Not only did the wind lessen but the terrain also flattened a bit. By 4 pm we crossed the bridge in Tehuantepec. 

The first thing we noticed was the colorfully dressed women with their wide ankle length skirts, their hair in long braids and colorful ribbons braided through them. Also the unique public transport of the "motocarro", a three-wheeled motorcycle of sorts with a platform on the back on which passengers stand. Quite a sight when the women with their bellowing skirts ride them.

Per Wikipedia, the population is composed almost wholly of indigenous Zapotecs. The women are the traders in Tehuantepec and do little menial work. Known as "Tehuanas," these women are known throughout Mexico for their colorful dresses, assertive personalities, and relatively equal relations with men

We quickly found Donaji Hotel but continued looking because the deskclerk said they did not have wifi. But apparently none of the hotels do. The nearby Oasis looked like a nicer hotel but they were fully booked. We checked into Donaji and, after we got settled and turned on the computer, we were pleasantly surprised to find that we were connected to their internet. 

After a much needed shower we went grazing on some tipica snack food around the main square. An indigenous lady had a tempting assortment spread out on small cart. Some potent liquor soaked green cherry type fruits that gave us an instant buzz. Then we sampled different cream filled pastries and the best flan I had ever tasted with a generous drizzle of burned sugar on top. So we started with dessert, what the heck. We then picked up some delicious roasted chicken and onions and fresh tortillas. Along with some tasty tomatoes we sliced on the side, it made a great meal.. We have found that the tomatoes and carrots we buy in a lot of the markets in Mexico taste like they are suppose to, unlike the ones we are fed in the US that have little or no flavor. But boy do they hold up in transport.
We decided take a rest day here. We enjoyed a great breakfast at cozy Scaru Restaurant. Colorful murals cover the walls. Their Huevos Mexicana, whipped fried eggs covered in tasty tomato base sauce, were delicious.


Every opportunity we have, we explore markets in the towns we visit. This one didn't disappoint. It was a colorful hussle and bussle. 
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jason on

i feel your pain! I have never known a wind so strong, nor have I ever cursed
so much. At one stage i couldnt even push the bike, and it was flat! after
much thought of why people even live in this god forsaken place, i realized
that the word for air is viento and the town was called la ventana..i at
least something made sense as i struggled at a ridiculously slow pace......

And whats this about cream filled pastries, usually your nose is firmly turned
up on whats on offer, the wind must have really took it out of you...haha

hurry up and get to the guatemala blogs will you....

my dad just asked about you guys, i told him dave is recovering from a 'brain
explosion' and Michelle is 'hanging loose'...ha

im still in san cristobal, its nice, and i found the best hotel thus far, 70 pesos,
fast wifi, 24 hour hot water, room with two beds, 1 for all my crap, and
central....yesterday i had the best falafal in ages, freshly made thick pitta
bread, with fresh hummus smoother than a babies bottom, i almost had a
heart attack when he said they were closed today :(

bought a GOOD tire for my trailer today, that my mum will bring along with two
good tubes as well, im a happy bunny

im just trying to write an article for an online magazine...'what happens when
your dream becomes your life'

ciao for now

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