Who was the Genius who Thought this One Up?
Trip Start Jul 04, 2010
163Trip End May 10, 2011
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Where I stayed
El Tigre Restaurant
Saturday: Villa Onion to Caimanero 50 km /30 Mi, riding on dirt road,,,, kiting,,,smoked fish….camped at El Tigre restaurant…. Mosquitoes...chokingly hot
We woke early in our cheesy hotel. Almost everything was still packed all we had to do was down some yogurt. We left Jason at the hotel checking Internet and started on the road before 8AM. We doubled back to the center of town and took the road west to Walamo.
There are signs on this route proclaiming it 'Ruta Tourista'. This way will add 30km/20 miles vs. going on the truck route 15. And as expected, it proved to have very little traffic and, from that aspect, a great way to cycle. We made good time for two hours…..then the sun broke through the clouds and put the brakes on our muscles. There was no way of getting around the life sucking heat and humidity.
We enjoyed seeing small town life with Little League baseball players in their uniforms riding in back of trucks to town for the game, local people riding bikes or working on their land on the side of the road, etc. Some stretches were lined with mango orchards, coconut and date palms. Then the rural country side evolved into wet lands with lots of birds…….and bugs. Lots of bugs
There must have been something in the air. First as we arrived in at Walamo, we passed a stable with a horse whose junk was hanging part way out. He was either just finished horsing around or just getting ready. Then down the road in the pasture, Michelle spotted some floppy eared cows she likes. As we got ready to take pictures, a bull began to mount one of them. No cow porn though. The Bull became cowardly and ended his bull session. Further down the road, we spotted a rancher’s trailer with what looked like a five legged bull. As the trailer bounced through a pothole, the giant appendage seemed to bounce off the floor of the trailer. I think the rancher was very proud of his bull because he paraded passed us several times.
Jason caught up to us just before noon when we stopped for a drink and break at a small store 10 km before the beach area of Caimanero. We set Caimanero as our goal for lunch in the early afternoon.
The paved road turned south as it approached the ocean. A narrow strip of land with orchards, jungle and spots of wetland was between us and the ocean. We could see a dirt road just by the ocean and decided to cut through a farm in hopes of cooler riding closer to the beach. That proved to be a mistake. A nice farmer unlocked the gate to give us access to the dirt road along the beach. He offered us water and said in 8 km we’d get to a restaurant. The surf was wild and beach strewn with driftwood, palm frawns and coconut shells. Yes, there was a good wind going but the road was better suited for cars & trucks than the narrow tires of our bikes. The softness of the dirt made it very difficult to peddle. After a km we spotted an open fence at a sewage treatment plant. Hoping to find access back to the paved road and a person to open gate for us at the road, we went for it. Two guys came out of a small building and told us to go back. Then, after a moment, they waved us forward. Soon we discovered we needed to haul our bikes up and down a dozen steps to get through the gate. Our bikes are heavy and it was difficult. But the guys graciously helped and soon we were happily riding on pavement again.
We put up the umbrella to provide some protection from the sun. It helped and did not blow away. We found Jason waiting for us and rode the final few kilometers together to Caimanero. We found out Caimanero is just three beachside restaurants without any other stores or services around. We fell into the 1st restaurant (El Tigre) and plopped ourselves down at a table in the cooling breeze.
The menu is all seafood and drinks. We saw beef cooking but that was for the staff. I guess even great seafood would get boring day after day. Michelle ordered her usual fishbowl of shrimp. Jason and I picked a 1 kilo fish out of the cooler to be fried for us. They charge for the fish by the kilo….. It arrived at our table with a honey brown glaze and a slightly smoky flavoring. We debated if it was due to the marinade or the smoky grill… Either case, it was delicious… and it was quickly voted the best fish in Mexico.
Then we snoozed. Then Jason showed Michelle how to fly his kite. It was a great break in our bike riding day.
Michelle had the great idea to stay all day and pitch our tents on the beach for the night. No problem said the waitress. We could use the lawn, patio, banos, and pool too. They also had a security guard who would be there to keep an eye on things. And the owner gave us a lift to the local store on his way to dropping off a few employees at home. We cooked our own dinners and then pitched tents after most other customers had gone home and before lights out at 9:30. We decided to stay under the roof in order to stay dry in the event we got another nighttime down poor.
The security guy set up a cot in the breeze way. It was about 3 and a half feet off the ground and a mosquito net was strung from the poles above. We crawled into our warm tents. The breeze had died completely and left us in our hot, sticky, humid tent. We managed to clonk out for a few minutes but soon awoke to what felt like bugs crawling on my legs. It was drops of my own sweat rolling down , not bugs. Without a breeze, the hot night was unbearable. Michelle got out her battery operated fan which provided some comfort. We picked up our tent and moved it to the edge of the patio and hoped to catch more breezes. It helped because the breeze would kick up now and then and then die. I laid my face on my arm to use it as a pillow. Sweat broke and my cheek hydroplaned off my arm. Michelle asked ‘who was the genius who thought this one up?’ We thought of searching for the Tortugas (turtles) that would be coming on the beach to lay their eggs about now. We were too beat and opted to attempt to get some sleep.