on the douro...by the sea

lovin it here.....really unique place. Porto lines the banks of the douro river as it flows into the Atlantic. The old part of the city also clings to a few very steep hills, good exercise ambling around town. Definitely a different feel to Madrid, much more laid back and although it is quite big and spread out, Ribiera (the old quarter) has a small town feel.

blue tiled church

People were super friendly and hospitable. Our Portuguese is exceedingly poor (it is a weird language, sounds almost Baltic/Russian at times) but people appreciated any effort we made. Quick example; asked a lady for directions after changing some travellers cheques, she locked up her booth, sparked up and fag and led us down the street to where we needed to go!!! Lots of smiles, people chucking in stuff for free/rounding prices down and other very hospitable acts.

chillin'

Food is great.. we love our fish and so do the Portuguese. Espada (kind of like a barracuda, aussie fishermen chuck them back) and bacalhua (cod) are the staples, also pretty keen on their Lulus (baby squid) and chochos (baby cuttlefish). Always grilled to perfection, served with salad and boiled potatoes (the best boiled spuds ever)

Very hilly city, got a good workout returning from the river back up to our lovely little pensao. The old part of town, Ribiera, is pretty compact.....tiny little streets abound. Other parts of town have grand boulevards lined with huge, classic buildings. Lots of interesting houses, churches, mini-palaces and tiled facades. Porto was a very important trading city and the home of port wine; these prosperous days live on in some magnificent architecture.

cinema

Great little food market we popped into a couple of times with some little kitchens churning out tasty food for locals. Had a great, cheap feed of fish, pork rice and chips in one very friendly little establishment. The standard and value of food is maybe a little better in Porto than Lisbon; one can get a plate of fish, rice vegies for €3 in quite a few places. Also had a delicious grilled chicken (made nandos look very second rate) and Mark sampled an interesting tripe stew.

On Valentines day (also Mark's bday) we checked out some buildings, gardens, had a great lunch (see the sardines in the photo album) and then took a bus to where the Douro pours into the Atlantic ocean. Nice neighbourhood with some old buildings, palm trees, cafes; bit of a St Kilda feel. Decided that we should have a game of mini golf; good decision, Mark took the honours (for once!!!). We'd been tipped off about a local restaurant on the river for Mark's bday dinner, but it was closed. After a bit of deliberation picked an ordinary looking place; it came up with the goods. Octopus, omelette, whole grilled fish... finished off with a chocolate mouse; the meal was superb. Went to a bar for a drink or two afterwards and saw a strange sight. Beer was served in meter high glass cylinders with taps on the bottom, sort of table specific glass kegs; very weird!!

clare up the top of a tower

Picked up a bus towards Lisbon, definitely worth checking out the areas north and inland of Porto on another visit; relatively few tourists, lots of villages and national parks also.

drooping birthday candle

hole in one!!

ladies and the market

other side of the river

porto

sardines

tiles

tiles - close up