Our next stop was Quimper where we pulled into our first five star campsite on the trip. The campsite was on the grounds of the Château du Lanniron, adjacent to a golf range. Definitely the greenest campsite we’ve seen, it felt like we were camped in the middle of a garden with well-established rhododendrons and azaleas and various other trees.After a quick lunch and waiting for the rain to stop, we walked into town (about 3 km away) along a walking path. We passed by a beautiful garden along the way, with scented roses.
We stopped by the biscuiterie to sample some baked goods from the region and then headed on into the town, along the river. We spent about an hour or so just wandering around the town poking our head into small shops and admiring the various half-timbered houses. The church was also particularly interesting because the main nave was crooked! I am going to venture that Quimper had the highest density of crêperies for a square in Brittany – on the Place du Beurre (what an excellent name), there were seven! On the way back to the campsite, we stopped by the biscuiterie again for a few more samples and debated buying a Kouign Amann Pomme. The following morning, we walked back into Quimper the same way to check out the textile market. We were expecting more artisanal crafts and clothing but most of it was just mass produced, and not of particularly high quality either. We shortly thereafter walked back to camp and made a final stop at the biscuiterie to buy that apple Kouign Amann. One thing we’ve noticed in France is that regional products (e.g. cider, crêpes, caramel beurre salée, Kouign Amann and Breton biscuits in Brittany) are generally only available within the department’s borders. We were going to be leaving Brittany in a few days so we figured that if we wanted to get any regional treats, now was the time.
Our visit to Douarnenez was very short lived and the port-town had clearly changed for the worse since Meghan's last visit in ’94. In the late 1800s, this town was a major player in the sardine industry but the only evidence of that nowadays is a lone cannery and a few smaller fish wholesalers by the port. We walked along the port and for a bit through town but there wasn’t a lot to see and many buildings were either empty, for sale or rundown. We felt that Douarnenez has definitely seen better days.