Rainy Rarotonga

  Rarotonga, Cook Islands
Friday, November 21, 2003

They wouldn't let me stay any longer in Fiji so here I am in Rarotonga in the Cook Islands staying in Vara's Beach House right on the sea front overlooking the lagoon. There's quite a lot of islands in the Cooks but Rarotonga is the administrative centre and the base for the international airport. I got here latish on Friday night leaving just enough time to dump my bags and head on down to the bar next door to catch the world cup rugby. The bar had set up a marquee on the beach with a projector and a makeshift bar selling beer cans from a cool-box. As they are linked to New Zealand, all the Cook Islanders were cheering for the Kiwis and despite their disappointment at losing, they gave everyone a free beer at the end of the night to help them drown their sorrows.


Backpackers on the beach at Vara's Beach House


The beach at Vara's Beach House

As I'd arrived after dark on Friday I wasn't sure what the weather was like - on Saturday there was no doubt - it was pouring with rain! It rained all day Saturday, all day Sunday and all day Monday - good job that Saturday was a bonus day - I'd already done Saturday in Fiji so it wasn't so much of a loss! On Saturday night we went back to the resort along the beach to watch the rugby, this time crowded round a TV set in the hotel reception as it was too windy to watch it down on the beach. Needless to say, not much happened over the weekend apart from a lot of sitting around playing cards and backpackers being generally fed up.

Finally on Tuesday the sun came out and everyone was back on the beach. There isn't a great deal to do here really. The island's pretty small and a good way to get around is on a scooter / moped. So I went to rent one - the only problem is, I don't have a motorbike licence! Here's how it works. You go to the hire shop and choose your scooter - they show you how to ride it - it's fully automatic so it's basically go and stop. You then drive down to the police station and book yourself in for a driving test and to apply for the Cook Islands driving licence which you need to drive over here. You are then free to drive around the island as much as you like until it's time to take your test. The test consists of riding round the block with about 10 other wannabe riders with a policeman following on his motorbike. As long as you don't do anything too stupid, 3 minutes later you've passed the test and they issue you with a licence. I think I'm now free to hire any motorbike I want (in Rarotonga) as I now have a full motorbike licence - scary thought! Think I'll stick to my little scooter!

Having got my scooter and my licence I was free to explore the island - since it only takes about 30 minutes to do a complete circuit there wasn't much exploring to do but I think I've seen all the beaches there are to see here now and the bike's handy for getting in and out of town!


Dancers at a Rarotongan Island Night


Dancers at a Rarotongan Island Night


Sunset on Rarotonga

The next day I set off to do the cross island hike with some others in the hostel. The interior of the island is 'mountainous' as the island is basically an extinct volcano. The walk's not particularly difficult but involves a fair bit of scrambling over tree roots and crossing streams with a rewarding swim in a waterfall at the end. There's chickens all over this island and I guess I shouldn't have been so suprised to find one clucking around at the summit!


At the summit of the Cross-Island Walk - with a chicken


View from the summit - Cross Island Walk


Waterfall at the end of the Cross-Island Walk - refreshing swimming!

Then yesterday I decided to go for a dive - hadn't heard great things about diving here so I was in two minds about it but decided to give it a go in the end. The water was very, very clear but the coral not particularly spectacular as most of it was bleached by Crown of Thorns Starfish a couple of years ago. I did see a large Green Turtle though which is always a good thing.


Spanish Dancer


School of Fish


Green Turtle


View of lush Rarotonga from the Dive Boat

So today is my last full day on Rarotonga. Tomorrow I'm off to Ai'tutaki and Atiu - two of the other islands then I get back on the same day as I leave for Tahiti. Just before I go, I have to mention the Cook Islands currency. Basically they use New Zealand dollars but they have their own currency which they use alongside it too including a triangular shaped 2 dollar coin (very odd) and a three dollar note! I've yet to see one of these 3 dollar notes in circulation but I've seen them in the bank.

Well the sun's out again so I'll be off to make the most of it and I'll be back in touch from Tahiti.