Welcome to Paradise
Trip Start
Nov 24, 2008
1
17
18
Trip End
Jan 31, 2009
Gokarna, Karnataka, India
Monday, January 19, 2009
We'd heard about Gokarna along the tourist trail and from the guide books. It was touted as what Goa was like ten years ago. Gokarna itself isn't really that exciting. Much like Pushkar, it is an example of holy town turned commercial to pander to the shopping and culinary tastes of hippies and package tourists alike. It definitely has a quirky charm though and we regret that we didn't spend longer there exploring beyond the central tourist strip.
We were really in Gokarna for the beaches it is famous for. Gokarna itself has a main beach, a holy place that is poluted and dirty besides, so no swimming here. Heading down the coast however are a series of beautiful little beaches that are relatively undeveloped. Kudle, Om, Half Moon and Paradise beach unfold respectively between the headlines. While there are several cafes, restaurants and guesthouses on these beaches, particularly on Kudle and Om Beaches, the vibe is very isolated and laid back (having said that we are glad not to have stayed on Om Beach as the one day we did visit there must have been a local holiday. Hoards of local Indian men took over the beach drinking beers and rolling in the surf screaming with excitement at every wave. It was quite a sight, but not the most relaxing; we returned shortly to the refuge of Paradise.)
We headed straight down to Paradise Beach. After an arduous climb to Kudle Beach we caught a boat around to Paradise. Afterwards we realised that a much better way to get there was by local bus to a village called Belekan from where Paradise is only a 20 minute walk away. Pardise is tucked away between two headlands and a high ridge 20 metres from the bridge so the only way in is by boat or foot. Nestled against the cliffs are a couple of restaurants that offer coco hut accomodation. We rented a stilt hut on the beach where the tide came nearly to our doorstep. In the mournings we would stumble out from our sleeping mats straight into the ocean. Around to the left was a patch of sand blocked from veiw by volcanic rock. Some more free spirited travellers would hop around here to sunbathe nude, which gave it the name naked beach. On weekends Indian men would come over by boat and climb the rock oggling and giggling down at the nudists in shock and general titilation.
There is a staunch population of travellers here who spend the whole season here. Many people had arrived in November, before we even got to India, and have been there since.
EM:
Upon arrival at this little piece of paradise we were some what sceptical about the hippy culture that existed there. I struggled to grasp what exactly the point of spending half your year at a beach taking ketomine was, and further more to what effect would this lifestyle helped an individual reach their path of self realisation. The cynicism wained however and after talking to alot of the people who were passing through or living there we found a little bit of peace in this palm lined refuge. We also met a really cool bunch of people Sam, Samwise, Kay and Rica who were three Brits and a Finnish girl who had been living and working in Coppenhagen together. We spent most of our time chilling out listening to them play music, or swimming reading and writting..........oh it was sooo exhuasting! Max bought a guitar to sait his musical appetite and after getting a good work out a a kind of open mic night, the neck snapped when we were getting on the train, so unfortunately Max's Indian album will not be released this year.
We had an awsome time at a theatresports Jam organised by Brian one of the long termers, and his girlfriend Sarah endevoured to teach me poi. Due to my background in dance I used to think I had a considerable level of co-ordination. I no longer hold that opinion. I am definately a spaz, and definately a long way off of lighting those poi. I'm kind of OK with that though, because if I master poi I may have to develop dreads, not come back from India and sell my soul to a guru.
On our final evening Brian and Sarah had Max and I and a bunch of other people over for a home cooked campfire meal. Their Hut was the Taj Mahal of all coco huts on the beach perched on the top of a rock face overlooking the beach and complete with typewritter and shelves. It was gorgeous! After a delicious curry dessert consisted of masala chai and dipping chocolate croissant in condensed milk....possibly one of the best inventions everywhere.
Despite my mixed feelings towards Indian/Euro beach Hippy culture in it's generalised form (The film the Beach is a good reference although set in Thailand) , we did have a wonderful time in Paradise and if anything the people we met made the place.
