Slummin' in Bollywood

Trip Start Aug 28, 2008
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Trip End Feb 28, 2009


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Flag of India  , Maharashtra,
Saturday, November 15, 2008

Hello everyone! Greetings from Mumbai. After two long weeks of being lazy on the beaches of Goa, I started to feel like the subject of that Jimmy Buffet song, Margaritaville. Each day I planned to set out, but lethargy, my cheap moped, and dollar beers kept me from moving anywhere. But in a little while, I got tired of meeting bloody hippies who'd smoked too much hash. And I even got sick of the beach. Time to return to the city life and head up to Mumbai...

On the way into town, to buy my bus ticket, I meet this older Indian man who weirdly reminded me of my grandfather. He was also a Catholic, raised in Bombay, and on his way back to sort out a passport issue. With some time to kill before the night bus (buses only travel at night around here), he invited me to his home for lunch. We talked about the corruption in Indian, Goa in particular (their now selling all the land to Russian developers and soon this will be little Moscow), and how he couldn't find a worthy neighbor to water his plants while he went away. "No good these young kids, none of them. All they know now is drinking and party." The bus ride was anything but eventful, except when our driver decided to drive on the wrong side of the road occasionally. The full moon allowed me to see some of the landscape, which is surprisingly mountainous.

I did get a few hours sleep and was just alert enough to take the city train into the heart of old Bombay, Colaba. On the walk to my hotel, I watched teams play cricket on the lawns in the shadows of the Old Victorian buildings left here by the Brits. Its a bit like London in some ways, but still India, no doubt. I don't get hassled as much here as in Delhi. There is def more wealth here and a white face isn't the only one with dollars. There is also a large ex-pat community, which lives and works downtown. I met a girl who works for Thomson Reuters (from England) the other night at one of the upscale cafes (meals starting at $5), and so that was a funny coincidence.

Yesterday I visited one of the best attractions here in the city, the Taj Mahal Hotel. I originally wanted to stay here, but at $600 a night, it is def too luxury for me. Maybe on a future business trip. Instead I had lunch, an expensive hamburger, and watched India's upper-middle class feed their whiney children, and Indian businessmen entertain English businessmen, each other unsure how to be humorous with the other party.

Feeling quite tired by the afternoon, I caught the latest Indian comedy EVERYBODY is talking about, Dostana (means friendship in Hindi). Ironically, it takes place in Miami Beach and is the story about two men who fall in love with the same woman (Priyanka Chopra - latest miss India and quite a babe I must say) and pretend to be gay in order to live with her as roommates. In the end, neither gets the girl, but they all get to be friends (Yay!). This seems to be a strong parable for Indian romance as men often form stronger bonds with each other than their romantic interest. But to be gay! Thats just absurd... (see entries about Indian men holding hands all over India!!).

This morning I woke up strong and focused (Im getting over a slight cold, so pollution causes coughing) and ready to sight see. Fortunately for me, so were a group of 15 yo boys who were cutting school for the day (they have a half day of school here on Saturdays). They took me to some old Hindu and Muslim temples, one that is built on a pier and appears to be floating on water. In exchange, I bought them lunch ($2) and helped them learn the lyrics to some of their favorite American songs, including a particular hit (Stephanie, you will enjoy this one) from Akon and Snoop Dogg about fornicating in a club. Ah, the human gains of globalization! I finished the day by checking out the slums of Bombay, which included events like creeper guys trying to get me to their "clubs" and a young boy shyly asking me, "Why did you come here? Why don't you see..." and he starts rattling off the major sights of the city. I smiled and told him I wanted to see the whole city, not just the tourist corral, but I don't think he got it.

Ok, had McD's again for lunch and so Im feeling sleepy as the nutritional content is nill but its better than getting sick. Hope everyone is coping with the cold weather. Its still freakin hot here.
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