Jesus of Sub-India

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  Goa, Goa, India
Thursday, November 6, 2008

So, I've been in Goa now for almost a full five days and Im quite surprised the appeal hasn't worn off. My bungalow is right on the beach, and for two of the days, I rented a bike to explore other beaches and points of interest. I felt like a true inhabitant, as there is quite a large ex-pat community here of backpackers who never left this paradise fifteen years ago when they arrived.

Yesterday I went to the original Portuguese settlement of Old Goa (the real O.G.) to learn about some of the history in the area, and also to see some familiar Western-Catholic remnants (massive churches and statues of Jesus mostly), instituted here by the colonizers. Basically, Mom, you'll be happy to hear that I went to Church yesterday.

Interestingly enough, the trip seems to have demonstrated an important lesson to me. Never a believer in missionaries (ok, you can have your laugh), Goa is a great example of what good colonization can do for a society. Much of the population, I feel, has embraced the Catholic teachings in one form or another, even if they still practice some Hindu beliefs. More importantly, the Portuguese (who ruled this colony until only 40 years ago) instituted things like education and private property, which has fostered a sense of general welfare I have yet to see anywhere else in the country. The Portuguese also protected the population here from the Mogul invasions, which caused a lot of turmoil in Indian history as it dis-enfranchised Hindu kingdoms and perpetuated the current caste system. They also protected this area from the British, who in my opinion, did more to single-handedly screw up India than any other imperialist, as evident from its former territories.

This is not to say that there weren't injustices done to the people, Im sure, just that those injustices are now outweighed by the benefits this area is experiencing, like more equatable allocation of resources. That said, Goa is also the prime vacation spot for Indians and non-Indians alike, so the tourist dollars help tremendously. The division is almost hysterical as you watch topless European women bathing next to Indian women (for many, the first time to the beach) who are decked out in full saris (traditional Indian dress, basically covering the whole body). The Indian men are decked out in either full shirt, pants, and even shoes, but now some of the young boys imitate the whites and just sport a Speedo. Either way, they roam in groups and can't keep their eyes off the women. They usually come on buses for the day, something built into a tour package, and head out when the sun sets.

On a final note, I have befriended a Swiss-Italian woman and her husband who own a restaurant on the hill above my bungalow. Tired of Indian and beach fare, I went to their restaurant last night for croque with capers and freshly made tagliatelle with mushroom and chicken in a light tomato-cream sauce. Coupled with a glass of red wine, for a moment, I felt like I was back at home.

One more thing. I would like to congratulate Barack Obama on his newly elected presidency. Though I didn't vote in this election, I am eagerly awaiting another rebate check from the Democrats, so that I can extend my travels that much more...

In God and dollars, we trust. Amen.

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