Jungle
Trip Start
Jun 18, 2007
1
16
150
Trip End
Ongoing
Taman Negara National Park,
Malaysia
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
After getting our bearings on the first day, we were rather disappointed to learn that the famous canopy walkway was closed due to a big tree falling on a main section in a recent storm. Plus, it would be out for at least a week. Damm ! But, there was still heaps to do. We set out for a 1 1/2 hr walk to a cave.
matt trying the famous durian
Walking in the Malaysia Jungle is like walking in a sauna, the humidity was pretty intense, but the walk was really scenic and we were preparing ourselves for the bigger walks we wanted to do. We saw heaps of stuff as the photos show. We arrived at the cave, without a torch doop! but Matt scambled in as far as he could go, and only retreated as he was swarmed by bats.
We took in a video about the National Park, and it's wildlife, it depicted tigers, elephants and rhinos etc. then said but you probably won't see any. Those animails are here, but nowhere near where the tourists are! We also made a reservation for a "hide" in the jungle for the next night.
The restaurants at the village are all floating along the river, you have to "walk the plank" to get to them, and they bob up and down as the boats go past. All the usual Malay dishes are on offer. Matt and I have pretty much gone "semi-vegetarian" on this trip, you just tend to feel more confident eating veges etc. so as to avoid getting sick.
So, the day arrived for our big adventure, an 11km walk to Bunbun Kumbang hide, ( say that 3 times fast) that's where you sleep for the night at a clearing/salt lick and spotlight for animals
cheap fruit $1 a kilo
. We had to dump most things out of our packs, as we needed both to carry the food and water that we needed, and leave it at our chalet. Armed with sleeping matts, torach, water, food and a change of clothes we set out. After about 5 mins, we were both dripping with sweat, and felt like we had walked in the rain. We had taken the "easier" route, however, there was still a lot of fallen trees on the trail to clamber over and muddy patches to avoid. Of course matt trail blazed ahead of me, but I did manage to keep up mostly, and sing out to him to stop when I needed a break. Oranges we had packed were very refreshing. We saw a lot of wildlife, wild pigs/piglets, big ants, millipede, wild looking dog? (maybe a pet), birds and some footprints of bigger animals along with elephant droppings and a snake skin. One of the last thigns we had to do before we reached the hide was ford (cross, matt taught me this word) a river.Now we knew this before we set out and it was a little bit frightening, as we didn't know how high it would be and what to expect. But all was good, we crossed without and problems, it was knee deep, but there was a bit of a current, which I could imagine wouldn't be much fun when the water was higher. So, with much anticipation we walked the last stretch to our home for the night, as the signs drew more frequent we knew we were close. There it was a little wooden hut, high off the ground looking out to the clearing. WE had made it in 5hrs, what the park guy had said it would take and we felt a sense of accomplishment. Particularly when we learnt others in the hide had taken a boat!
As we climbed the stairs, I couldn't help but get excited that there was a shower and toilet !!! And inside, timber bunks. yeah
matt and his durians
! I can do this jungle thing. No time wasted, it was shower time and wring out our shirts from sweat. After we stopped, Matt realised that his eye had become quite red and yucky. As usual, he thought he had contracted some strange disease, but in my professional opinion, I diagnosed conjunctivitis. There were six of us all together for the night in the hide, and after a bit of a rest, 4 of us headed back to the river crossing to take a swim before dark. The idea was to stay up and watch and listen out for animals, but both exhausted after the walk, we ate our tin of tuna and baked beans, and put our heads down for the night. I was stirred by a "are you awake, something is coming", I jumped up out of bed and we spotted a Taiper ( looks like a big wild pig, with a white back), that was the excitement of the night, matt didn't get up in time, so unfortunately missed it. The gurgling toilet also caused excitement a couple of times with people thinking it was an animal. No rats, that we saw anyway, at this particular hide, that we had been warned about by some other people. Next day it was up bright and early, to take the 12 km trek along a different route to the village. This was the more difficult trek, and it lived up to it's reputation, we walked along the river, and up and down the valleys caused by it's tributaries. So, now not just trekking, but clambering down near vertical walls to the little stream only to have to climb back up the other side. It was really, really pretty - but very hard work at the same time. This trek was to take 6 hrs. And we made it back spot on the 6hr mark!
What was really interesting was that for all the people at the park we didn't see anyone on either walks - obviously climbing up hills with backparks isn't seen as fun by many people - though it made as feel good as were obviously seeing a side of the park a lot of people don't
a pretty flower
. This was confirmed as we got closer to the resort on the way back when we saw people heading out in JEANS!!!To say the least we were rooted with a capital 'R' so it was back to our room for a well earnt sleep and shower - not in that order though.
The next day we were meant to head up stream to chill out at a waterfall and watering hole but you know it was hot and we were still stuffed from the other day - so a day of rest was decided - we had earnt it. Of note was that while my eye was fine Nicole's had decided to start to flare up and seemed to be much worse than mine - which was sorta funny - she though didn't think so.
The next day nics eye was still red like she had been smoking a certain herb so we decided to catch a train up to Kohtu Baru - the gate way to the perenthen island - Malaysia's show piece island - instead of going straight there. Nic needed to sleep it off I guess...
However like all travel getting there is half the fun.
This is because it is possable to catch the.... 'jungle express'. I know it sounds exciting doesn't it! In a nutshell northern Malaysia is heavily forested with few roads and therefore this train is the only way for people from villages to get around i.e. the train stops at every village picking up people and their many animals as it SLOWLY makes it way through the Malaysian jungle - over rickety bridges and steep mountains - sounds romantic doesn't it?? Indeed as the guide books say its the best way to see authentic Malaysians going about there lives
another pretty flower
. However, this experience does come with a price - that is time! to be precise about 13 hours of sitting on a hard seat next to (most likly) a jungle man with his pet pig. We however still wanted top see the great scenario so we did some searching and found out that an express train also goes the route in a more easy going 8 hours and it had AC - so with that we bought our 2nd class tickets for 20RM and got on the train.
We got into KB late at night and quickly found a room for 20RM and decided to stay 2 nights to see if Nic's eye was better -while just a regional capital with nothing 'must see', KB is Malaysia's most Islamic town and it really shows everyone is wearing the headscarf etc even though it is so hot. Indeed we have had warnings about western women walking around at night. You know they might currupt someone with their legs showing! There is not much else to say about KB, were off to the island tomorrow - we've booked a room on the beach for 40RM about $13AUS and intend to chill out for about a week after which we will hop on a train at KB and head off to thailand which is 30 mins away and go and set on a beach there - it's a hard life I know but someone has to do it.
