The Exotic Island of Zanzibar

  Zanzibar, Tanzania
Sunday, October 22, 2006

GPS Coordinates:
S 06°09'33.7"
E 039°11'41.5"

Temperature: 28.7°C
Humidity: 73.4 %
Pressure: 101.2 kPa
Altitude: 10 m

I left Arusha with some trouble with my tour operator company (Victoria Expeditions). I had already paid for a semi-organized 5 day holiday in Zanzibar but they didn't hold up their end of the bargain. Apparently someone in the chain had not done his job and ran with the money. So they bought me a last minute ticket to Zanzibar. Once there, no one was waiting for me at the airport like it was supposed. I finally got to the planned hotel but I wasn't a happy camper. If that wasn't enough, it is the end of Ramadan (Eid-El-Ftir...) soon here and Zanzibar is very muslim! They cannot eat or drink anything (even water in this heat!) all day. This must not be good or logical for the body. Therefore my driver clearly appeared delusional, sure signs of malnutrition or dehydration... He was talking loud and fast in a mix of swahili and broken english and laughing hysterically at himself while repeating AKUNA MATATA (No problem!) while driving. I didn't know if I was more scared for him or the fact that I was in a moving vehicle with him...

Now the guys in Zanzibar told me that they hadn't received money from their counterparts and couldn't do anything that was promised until they got money. I was starting to be a livid shade of purple! I had to clarify everything (i.e. receipt as proof) with them which cost me some valuable holiday time. After some convincing threats and several hours of debating over the next few days, I finally got most what I paid for because they received "some" money and my flight ticket out to Nairobi. I might still lose some money over this because I had to pay for some transport and the hotel in the beach area. At this point, I couldn't wait for them to get their fingers out of their noses any longer... I don't know where the truth lies and I will probably never know. The way they do business here is not the way it's done anywhere else...

Beach close to Stone Town (Spice Tour)

Regardless, the next morning I left for the very interesting all-day Spice Tour. At one point Zanzibar was also reknowned for it's spices and was appropriately named the Spice Island! We drove to a governement research / demo spice plantation where they grow several spices and fruits for educational purposes and the benefit of tourists. The guide showed and explained the usefulness of a variety of plants. We saw banana tree's, cumin (curcumin), vanilla, ginger, cardamon, cinnamon, cloves (Clou de girofles), ylang-ylang, nutmeg (Muscade!!! Special WOUF! (Hello) to an old friend...long story!), pepper (Which can supply / make all 5 colors), hot pepper, pineapple, coffee, etc...

Sultan's Persian Baths

We then went to the Sultan's Persian baths (See pic). This structure served as a relaxation (i.e. sauna, massage) area for the Sultan of the time and his court. Sultan rule of Zanzibar was still in effect under British protectorate in the early 1900's.

We went on to have lunch at a local village where we had rice flavored with 5 types of spices and a vegetable stew. We all sat down on the floor in a communal area to enjoy this meal which was OK.

Slave Chambers

Next stop was the Mangapwani underground slave chambers (See pic). As you know, the African slave trade was an accepted practice by "civilized" countries for many many years until the British (guilty themselves...!) started the ball rolling to abolish the slave trade. Zanzibar was one of the major hubs to ship slaves to the Middle East and Asia. At this point slavery was still practiced illegally because it was lucrative. Like anything in Africa... it take's some time... Therefore, some built small secret holding areas close to the beach for slaves awaiting to be shipped. They were stored (i.e chained) in cramped quarters (i.e. hot, humid, dirty...) over two levels maybe 4 feet apart, 100's at a time with minimal food and water. The chambers were partially built underground so not to attract attention from the authorities in these lush jungles. Personal opinion here that not everyone could share but... it is sickening to see just what humans can do to other humans just for money, religion, and / or just for power... and it still continue's today...! I think Darwin's theory of evolution still needs a few years of practice before we become truly "civilized"...!

The tour ended at a remote beach area for a 1 hour relaxation period / swim. It was very nice to finally be on one...

Typical Zanzibar (Stone Town) Street

Inside Another Slave Chamber

A Stone Town tour was planned for the next morning. BTW it is the end of Ramadan today and everyone is dressed up and celebrating all around, it is very interesting. Went to the Darajani market (i.e. fruits, vegetables, meat) which is nothing special. We then wandered our way through the winding Zanzibari streets to an old Anglican church. This church was built directly on top of the then banned slave market / chambers (these you can see). The remnants of the whiping post is still visible in front of the main altar.

Common Zanzibari Door

  Then to an old fort originally built by the Portuguese to defend the Stone Town seaside which is now recycled into an amphitheater with shops / restaurants. We were supposed to then visit the "House of Wonders" (Zanzibar history museum) and the Palace Museum (Sultan rule history) but both were unfortunately closed because of Eid-el-Ftir celebrations. For this reason, there was a big diplomatic function (President and Ambassadors) at the Palace denoted by the presence of heavy security and numerous cars with drivers.

MC's Tattoo

This is very unfortunate because it would have been really interesting to see inside these historic places. The House of Wonders is called as such because it was the Sultan's previous residence and was very massive compared to the standards of the time. This tour concluded and I then got a tattoo from a local just for kicks (See pic) before taking a transport to the Northern beach area of Kendwa.

Kendwa Beach Area (Northern Zanzibar)

Fisherman returning at Sunset

Kendwa is the place to be! It is not crowded and offers a very nice white sandy beach with a relaxing atmosphere. I got there for a much deserved rest / relaxation period! The next 2 days are for me... walking / swimming on the beach and that's it! The only problem is that this place is very romantic and I only met "couples", some even newlyweds. It would have been really REALLY! nice to share these moments with a "special" someone at this point... (;-) To whom it may concern...!) Future hopes and dreams I guess...!

Sunset at Kendwa Beach

Fire in the Sky

The sunsets I witnessed here were some of the most amazing in my life (All the reasons why I felt so lonely at this point...!). Special hello to the United Nations beach volleyball team and supporters... you know who you are! It was great to spend time with you guys. Every dream beach holiday, however short, as to come to an end so I left Zanzibar for Nairobi to continue my adventures...


Next chapter: Nairobi and the Masai Mara...?

MC enjoying the Beach

WHATEVER...!

Martin