Paradise Lost

Trip Start Mar 30, 2003
Trip End Jan 30, 2004

Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
Where I stayed
The Beach House

Flag of Fiji  ,
Friday, December 19, 2003


Its rainy in Fiji - give me New Zealand instead any time.

The rest:

Here I am sitting in a small office in the capital of Fiji. It doubles (triples?) as the Fiji Post Office Philatelic Bureau, with an admirable collection of First Day Covers from various Pacific statelets on the walls, an internet shop and a locksmith.

Although being in Fiji sounds wonderfully exotic, especially given the weather in the northern hemisphere at present, its actually the rainy season here and after 3 days I have yet to need to put on sunglasses or sunblock. Its quite hot, though, resulting in high humidity. My All Blacks fleece (special discount offer due to defeat in the world cup) which was quite useful for New Zealand evenings is now quite superfluous.

Anyhow, since my last update I overcame my fears to take the plunge on the Canyon Swing in Queenstown, 109 metres above the rapids and rocks below (see pics). It was not like a normal bungy jump as the cable is attached to a body harness, rather than to the feet, and after a freefall the cable swings you towards the other side of the canyon. After doing that I decided that I had had enough adrenaline activities in Queenstown and so spent the rest of the time on more sedate activities - playing minigolf and going on the luge (a dowhill race track for go-karts) with a guy I met from Melbourne.

I went to stay in a very small village, Glenorchy, some 45 minutes drive away for a night. Due to its spectacular setting it was yet another filming location for the Lord of the Rings. I travelled on a gravel road through fords to a small place called Paradise to look at the view of the mountains. I was due to go canyoning for a day which involves splashing about in rivers in a wetsuit, abseiling down waterfalls etc, but as I was the only one mad enough to sign up it was cancelled at the last minute.

From Queenstown it was a full day drive to Christchurch, the largest town on the South Island. I made a detour to go towards Mount Cook, NZ's highest mountain, where there was a short walk from the Visitors Centre to see the mountains and glaciers. I also stopped at Lake Tepako where a small chapel next to the lake has become something of a tourist mecca because of its picturesque setting. Christchurch itself was planned to have a very English appearance with punting available on the River Avon and streets named after English cathedral towns - Hereford, Gloucester, Lichfield, Durham etc. It seems to have an enormous population of Japanese students there to learn English. The Botanic Gardens were great for jogging through and the Arts Centre was mighty fine too. However, the main tourist attraction seems to be to see the official Wizard of New Zealand, who turns up in from of the cathedral at 1pm dressed in wizard garb to give a discourse from a step ladder. He seemed to ramble quite incoherently to me, but a lot of the crowd seemed to nod enthusiastically.

From Christchurch I flew via Auckland to Nadi airport in Fiji, where new arrivals are greeted by people paid to shout 'Bula!'. I am not sure what this means, but I am guessing 'Hello and give me some money'. After over 3 months in Australia and New Zealand it seems odd to be back in a country which, to use the politically correct phrase, is less developed. A Kiwi engineer on the plane put it more bluntly - 'Suva's a shithole. Dont go there. Plus, they are the worst drivers in the world.' Certainly everything here operates on 'Fiji time' which means a few hours after it is supposed to happen. It is amusing that the Queen's head appears on all banknotes and coins despite being deposed as Head of State in a military coup 6 years ago. (Has anyone told her?). It has now been a full 3 years since the last coup so there is general agreement there it is getting time for another, if only anybody could be bothered.

I spent my first night at a beach resort near Nadi, which was depressingly empty. The next day dawned to show dark silty sand at low tide. It was like Morecambe Bay with palm trees, so I quickly escaped to a backpacker resort on the southern 'coral coast' of Viti Levu called the Beachhouse.I went diving there on the coral reef, seeing lots of giant clams and an octopus hiding under a rock. I also used the resort's kayak and played board games with the other guests when it rained.

So, for the next few days I plan to discover some offshore islands and perhaps do some more diving. After all, when you're 20 metres underwater it doesnt matter too much if its raining. If I'm really bored, perhaps I should organise the next coup...
Slideshow Report as Spam
  • Your comment has been posted. Click here or reload this page to see it below.

  • Please enter a comment.
  • Please provide your name.
  • Please avoid using symbols in your name.
  • This name is a bit long. Please shorten it, or avoid special characters.
  • Please enter your email address to receive notification
  • Please enter a valid email address

Use this image in your site

Copy and paste this html: