The Yellow Mountain

  Huangshan, Anhui, China
Wednesday, April 30, 2008

The Yellow Mountain

China's most famous peak, Huang Shan! Famed for its 'other-worldly' fogs ands its looming granite formations. Huang Shan's natural beauty is complemented by the sacred mountain aura of nearby Buddhist Jiuhua Shan, one of China holiest places of pilgrimages.
Although one would think that there is nothing that can take away the beauty, unearthly views and tranquility of such a sacred place...believe me there is! To start with some one has decided to put a cable car and ugly concrete steps all the way to the top and perched (in your way!!) on almost every step, there is some annoying, not very good entrepreneur, trying to sell you tacky, overpriced shit! If this is not enough, then try about 1 million extremely noisy Chinese people on a bank holiday weekend and a monstrosity of a hotel at the top!!

The Yellow Mountain

Not wanting this to spoil my experience, I decided to take matters in to my own hands. I snuck of the designated and pathed route (which was suppose to be forbidden) and made my own way through the bamboo forest to the top, which I can assure you, (although more strenuous) was much more rewarding! Not only this, but once on top, there are a number of hotels, which because they have the monopoly are overpriced and quite frankly a piss take!

The start of the camp

Not wanting this to effect my experience either I decide to make my own camp (Ray Mere style) just meters from the summit,(which was suppose to be off bounds for walking...let alone camping) giving me idyllic views for mile. It also allowed me to watch the sunset over the horizon, silhouetting the sharp granite peaks and Huang Shan's ubiquitous pine trees. Sunrise was equally stunning as the sun began to rise through the 'sea of clouds'; the pools of mist which that had settled over the mountain in the night, filling its chasms and valleys, turning the surrounding peaks in to floating islands as they just protruded through the mist.
Although I have painted a rather 'peaches a cream picture' here, let one thing be known. Not wanting to carry much up the strenuous western accent, I only had a rain coat and no sleeping back! My only preparation other than that was to build the shelter and collect some fire wood in case it got to cold, which I can assure you it did! Unfortunately for me, along with the cold and damp at nightfall came a strong wind which whipped up the western valley so strong that I was unable to start a fire without risking setting alight to the whole mountain which was full of dry grass (although this did cross my mind about 4am when I couldn't sleep from being so cold!).

Sun rise

Anyway, a bit of sleep deprivation and colds never killed anyone and Im fine now, all part of the fun as far as Im concerned!
Maybe not the worlds hardest or highest but this really did have some breathtaking views and scenery.