Oh I do like to live beside the seaside...
Trip Start Apr 29, 2006
70Trip End Ongoing
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Split is spectacular
Unfortunately, I have found myself here in the middle of the holiday season - the place teeming wih tourists - mainly croatian - enjoying their yearly 2 week summer holiday. It's busy - not quite 'Yangshuo during May week' busy, but still fucking busy. Despite this, it hasn't been too difficult to find a reasonably quiet spot on the beach, swim and relax. Bacvice beach, according to one of the locals running my hotel (we'll call him Goran because that's his name), is the most beautiful beach in Split 'as long as you don't mind sand beaches', seemingly suggesting that some crazy people may object to sand beaches, which are clearly far superior
Perhaps the worst thing that can be said about the beaches, and this lifestyle, is that they are a meditteranean cliche - the yachts bobbing in the secluded bays more likely than not to house a 'Diana toe-sucking' like scandal, to appear in tomorrow's tabloids. The bronzed men rarely wearing shirts; the sophisticated women smoking on the terraces; vespers; bad european dance music (las ketchup - killing me); are all to be expected as part of this mid-July snapshot but are still amusing and slightly surprising when they actually occur, like Australian accents in an Australian feature film. It's not such a bad cliche to be living...
Split, at this time of year at least, is certainly a playground for Croatians and other europeans alike. That the croatians enjoy such wonderful leisure time, very similar to Australia, in the summer, is quite remarkable considering their recent history. Such is the freshness of the war, there has been a certain reluctance to discuss anything political or war related; understandably so; insight about this period is difficult to attain
So, Split. A city of cafes, beaches, historical significance, beautiful women and, if visited at the right time of year, football hoolaganism - what's there not to like? A beautiful place that has induced me to stay for longer than planned.
And so to the Top 5. Well, having spent a large proportion of my time in Split cafes, I feel at least slightly qualified to cast some judgment over them. Frankly, they are one of the best ways to spend the long, hot Split days, writing, reading, people-watching, thinking about the great hings about these cafes. And so, after much thought, the Top 5 things about Split Cafes:
5. The fact that they serve no food at all, and the waitresses say 'No. We don't do food. We are a cafe'.
4. Cockta - not coke. not chinotto. Somewhere in between. Genius.
3. Chess - everywhere. Knight to b3.
2. $1 coffees - unheard of since the good old guild coffee days.
1. Swing chairs - aka chairs like swings. Like on the porch of a manor in the southern US states. Brilliant...