Mark 30/4 : Day 1 Inca Trail
And so it all began with a 4am alarm & 4.30 pickup in our little mini bus. We jumped on to find our fellow travellers, a Norwegian family of Dad (Eidar, 44), Mum (Linda, 43) & Daughter (Ida, 19) + our guide (Santiago, 29) and 10 porters (ranging in age from 19-54). The porters all started clapping when we got on board & I immediately thought it was for resisiting the temptations of Mama Africas bar which was still pumping out music at that time. But no, its just what they do.
We drove about 90mins to Oyototambo (or something like that) for pre-departure breakfast and what we thought was going to be our last decent meal of the trip & somehow we both finally succumbed & got some of the many llama gloves that have been on sale for the really cold nights.
From there it was through to the 82km marker (2720m) for our dropoff, through the checkpoint and the inka trail finally began at 9am. It was pretty easy going, we saw a few Incan sites & the scenary was not very interesting with the only notable thing was the passing of our group by the porters and the sheer amount of equipment that they have to carry, there is a limit placed on the porters of 25kg of trek gear + 5kg of personal. The company that we used Llama Path (www.llamapath.com) have a reputation for looking after their porters as there were some that looked to be carrying a hell of a lot more than that as their packs were about the same size as them (in saying that the Quechan males are not of the same proportions of the Amazonian chicks). We had lunch at a little campsite (3000m) and were treated to a spectacular 3 course affair that was as good as most of the restaurants that we have been to so far - hats off to the chef.
Âfter lunch we started our first decent hill climb of 2 hours towards our campsite (1B) at 3300m, where we arrived in time for Inka Happy Hour, which was sadly beer free, but did have popcorn and crackers laid out on the table in our mess tent & we were very happy to see all the tents had been set up, inflatable mattresses blown up and our extra personal gear & sleeping bags ready to be picked up. This was trekking at its finest.
At nightfall we were treated to another brilliant dinner and retired to bed at about 7.30 pretty tired and listenting to a chorus of frog calls.
Becs:
On first impressions (well 2nd impressions if you count the incompetent office staff and the lying, deceiving manager) Llama Path team on the trek seem pretty good. Our guide Santiago is a funny little chap and half the time we´re not sure if he is serious of joking, but good fun. The porters, there were 2 for each of us were also fantastic, always busy getting things organised for us and making sure everything ran smoothly. On arrival and both lunch and at the camp site in the evening they stop what they are doing and come out to welcome us with a round of applause, nice feeling but also feel a bit guilty and they are congratulating us for making it when they are the ones that are carrying 30kgs just for our bit of luxury, if you ask me its definitely the porters that require the round of applause each day.
Our 2 hour hill climb in the afternoon to the camp site sent me huffing and puffing and wishing I´d spent a lot more time in the gym back in London! With today being an 'easy' day I was not looking forward to tomorrow, the 'hard' day! Early to bed in preparation of day 2 hill climbs. As we were about to go to bed Santiago told us that there were bears in the park and that if we had any food, especially chocolate, that we must place it all in the mess tent for our own safety. Well we thought that was fair enough and gathered our food only to be fooled again as he was only joking and just wanted to eat our chocolate. Well the Norweigns fell for it also...............
Mark 01/5: Inka Trail Day 2
Early 5.30am wakeup with a bucket of hot water outside the tent for an early morning rinse. It was pretty comfy in the tent on the thermarests & in the 5 season sleeping bags, another great breakfast of pancakes & porridge. Then it was the start of the big climb up to Dead Womans Pass going from 3300m to 4200m which was pretty tough going. While on the 1st day we saw hardly any other trekkers on the trail the pass was a great equaliser & we started to see a few more of the 200 trekkers and 300 porters that are permitted to do the Inka Trail on a daily basis. We travelled up as a group and made it to the top and then down the other side in fairly good time making the 8k´s in 5.5hours despite some altitude sickness and we had a good break at the top to take in the view of the other people making their way up the hill slowly. Becs used her iPod on the second half of the climb up to get the power of music into her legs to help her on the way to the top. As it was May Day it was a public holiday in Peru so Santiago cracked a beer at 10.30 in the morning to celebrate working on a holiday and we all had a little well earned sip. Coming down from Dead Womans pass was the first really steep descent and I discovered that I much much prefer uphill than down. On this ascent and descent the scenary was starting to get much more like the type of stuff that you would expect from the Peruvian Andes.
We had lunch at 3500m & everyone was pretty knackered that we had a 1 hour siesta after. It was at this stage that it is time to share with you Becs new name from Peru. When we booked the tour from Puno to Cusco the ticket was issued to Miss Waquesil and on this trip Santiago was switching between Rebecca & Rebeckita. Post lunch we had another climb up another pass to 4000m & I can tell you that Rebeckita Waquesil was not looking forward to that. It was from up at this pass we could look back and see how Dead Womans pass got its name. Not from the amout of female trekkers that cant quite make it to the top and cark it, but the shape of the rocks from this side look like a Dead Woman. After that pass it was down to another Incan ruin (we had seen a couple that day) and then on to our campsite at 3600m, with the fully set up tents, inflatables, sleeping bags etc. and the porters clapping us in (as they had at each lunch, pass, evening). Everyone was even more tired so after dinner it was a crash out in the tent, but not before Linda declared that this day was more exhausting than childbirth. And she has 3, so I took her word for it. Pretty much straight to sleep all the way through to our wakeup at 6am.
Becs:
Well they don´t call it Dead Woman´s Pass for nothing as that´s how I felt at certain points during the climb. It panned out that I was the worst at walking up hills so was the last of the group. Mark came back and started walking behind me to make sure that I was still moving in a forward motion! We made lots of stops on the way up, topping up on our coca leave and lollies (sweets) and at one point Santiago had some magic potion to share with us, rubbing some liquid into his hands we each had to inhalf the fumes and off we went again. Never found out what exactly was in that 'magic potion'!
Half way up my legs were hurting and getting harder to breathe (I blame the high altitude and less oxygen) it was time for the ipod and I would like to thank Kylie, Madonna, Britney, JT, Cristina and Timberland for getting me to the top.
The descent to lunch on the other side was much easier and I danced my way down pretty easily while this was the part that Mark stuggled with and looked like an old man with his walking stick trying to get his knees to do what he wanted (I have some photos of this).
Arrived at our camp site pretty buggered, but the tubs of hot water and soap placed outside our tents on arrival was like heaven as we had our little foot spa! Managed to gather up enough energy to eat dinner then collapsed into bed for a big sleep ready for another early morning and a promise of an easy day (although Santiago had promised us Pisco Sours and La Playa which never eventuated).
Mark 2/5: Inka Trail Day 3
We were promised a nice easy day, with a pass of only 3680m to take and then the descent to our camp for the next day, which was the closest to Macchu Pichu. The legs were a little weary but it helped that we were walking along the 500 year old Incan path that wound around and into the mountain (well there was a short tunnel to go through so with our Norwegians we made all sorts of bad troll jokes). The trails had some big drops down one side & it was pretty impressive scenary as this was bordering on the jungle but also with snowcaps & glacial mountains in view. Once over the pass we had another tour around an Incan ruin and then it was down the thousands of stairs that make up the "Gringo Killer". The porters though just about sprint down these stairs while fully loaded, whereas, us Gringos are going 1 step at a time slowly slowly and ducking to the side (mountain side) every so often to dodge a speeding porter & his 30kg of backpack. Anyhow, it was a 1000m vertical descent. And it sucked. But we made camp (after visiting another Incan site) at 1230 and had a hot shower and couple of beers to celebrate getting through the main part of the trail.
That night we had the "Tipping Ceremony" for the porters which involved a lot of clapping from all parties & then us handing over a couple of envelopes to the porter and cook to thank them for all their hard work. And to be fair, they were absolutely excellent. The rule of thumb was 4 Soles ($1.50USD) per porter and double that for the chef, but we put in a bit more than that. It was another early night for us too as a 4.00am wakeup the next day beckoned.
Becs:
Okay day 3 was easier and lots of downhill which was good for me but not good for Mark, he´s old man knees weren´t coping too well. It was a bit more of a leisurely walk and we visited a few Inca sites on the way, although nothing in comparison to Machu Picchu. We arrived at our campsite at lunchtime so only a half day today which was great. We could eat all the amazing 3 course lunch and then just lazy about. The campsite was situated on the edge of a mountain and we had a terrific view from our tent but step more that 40cm outside of the front of it and you´d be off the side of the mountain! This was the camp where most of the trekkers stayed this night and instead of the usual 3 groups as the previous nights there was about 500 people at this camp! There was also a 'lodge' at this campsite which was basic but sold beers and hot showers, we had both and felt much better and ready for the early morning ahead to finally see what we had trekked all this way for.
Mark 3/5: Inka Trail Day 4
Early wakeup and breakfast, where somehow the chef had managed to whip up a cake, fully iced and decorated just on camping equipment. Good work. Headed on down to where we have to line up with the 200 other trekkers to get into Machu Picchu, then it was a 1 hour walk through to the sun gate where a couple of crazy folks were trying passing manouvers on slippery paths (it had been raining since 1am and still had a slight drizzle in the morning) with mountain drops on one side, in the dark. It was quite funny looking back at all the people weaving along the path with their miners lights hats on bobbing up and down. We got to the Sun Gate in time for sunrise, but, it was about visibility of 20m so that was a bit of a washout. We then headed on down into MP and the cloud stated lifting a little to start to see the buildings and terraces. We had a 2 hour tour given by Santiago and then free time to wander around the sight itself by which times the clouds had cleared so much to Becs disgust we walked back up to the top and sat and took in Macchu Pichu. And it was pretty damn impressive. Had a couple of hours there then down into the very ripoff touristy town of Aguas Calientes for lunch (and a couple of celebratory beers) and then train & bus back to Cusco. Had a quick bite to eat at Los Perros, an Australian wine/lounge bar that did not quite meet expectations and then bed by 9.30. Exhausted, but satisfied we had done it!
Becs 3/5: Inka Trail Day 4 - MACHU PICCHU
So finally today is the day we see what we have walked all this way for (actually could have just caught the train but where is the fun in that!). A 4am wakeup and we were in line at the gate (the entrance from the campsite to the path to Machu Picchu doesn´t open til 5:30am) by 5am and were easily in the first 50 people which we were very happy about. Unfortunately today the weather wasn´t on our side and it was raining but we got some more use out of our waterproof pants and jackets so the rain didn´t really bother us. At 5:30am we were through the gate and on the way, slow to start with as it was pitch black with many steep wet and slippery rocks to climb over everyone was being careful (apart from a couple of pushy people). After and hour we arrived at the Sun Gate which for today should have be re-named the Cloud Gate as what we should have seen was an amazing view over Machu Picchu but instead it was just a sea of white cloud. So on we continued about another 45mins til we finally reached it. We had a 2 hour tour from Santiago who took us around and pointed out the main things to see then it was free time to wander before taking the train in the afternoon back to Cusco.
So after many Incan ruins over the last 4 days Mark´s quote on arrival at Machu Picchu was 'these Incan ruins are a bit hyped up'......I don´t think Mark is up for many more ruins anytime soon!
(Mark: In fairness, I said that on Day 3, and then after seeing M.P. I was prepared to revise that view to say that in fact that the boys did good here. But I am over ruins for a while. Funny thing about the Incan empire, there were only ever 13 or 14 "Incans" (Kings) the rest of the people were Quechan, that and the fact that 30 or 40 conquestidors managed to knock off 10000 odd Quechans in a battle led me to make my hyped up statement.)
TIP:
Take a pair of jandels to change into each night to get some time out of boots!
Hire a porter for personal gear, we saw alot of people looking like they were not enjoying themselves on Day 2 & 3.
Hire a walking stick, helps with the pushing up when heading higher and the slowing down when going lower.
Don´t let the females write stories second, they embellish old man knees and miss out wheezing female lungs (whilst the male ones powered to the top no problemo).
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