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The best book on the history of Elmina seems to be one by a writer called Ato Ashun. I'm not sure it’s the best researched history (he writes "hundreds of millions of Africans were taken in the transatlantic slave trade" – whereas most estimates, which are still shocking of course, are that ten million were captured & sold, and another ten million died as a direct result of the trade – not “hundreds of millions"), but it’s written passionately and with desperate sadness.
I'd like to meet Ato, but neither Ben nor Suzi who run the hotel have come across him. I write him an email, but I have a feeling the email address I have for him is rather old.
Curiously, the pool has the 'Adinkra' hand-cuffs symbol painted on the its bottom. What does this mean? I will find out.
The night comes and suddenly I'm hungry.
The hotel’s restaurant is just a few yards from the beach-edge. It being quite open, you simply face the dark sea and the crashing waves as you take a drink, or savour your meal. Only, tonight it is not dark on the horizon – a long necklace of orange lights pricks the blackness: the fishing boats are out, so the fishermen must believe the seas will be propitious tonight.